Headlight wireing upgrade + Nautilus

First off you will need (I used)...
3 x 30A relay (1 with it's own fuse for the horn)
3 x relay holder
2 x H4 wiring plugs
3 x 2 meter lengths of 2.5mm2 wire
2 x 3 meter lengths of 1.5mm2 wire
1 x 1 meter length of 1.5mm2 wire....... I used tinned thin wall wire
2 x 1 meter 12.7mm 3/1 heat shrink
1 meter 8mm heat shrink
2 x 25A fuse
2 x 20A fuse
1 x 30A pre wired fuse holder (splash proof)
1 x 6.3mm 4 way connector.
2 metres of 8mm clear tubing
1 x 20A led rocker switch (so I can kill the dipped headlights and run on sides only)
8mm copper 90° bend, one bulge chopped off
some alloy strip to mount the trumpets of the horn
Assorted bullet connectors and heat shrink.
And of course a Stabel Nautilus compact.

Quite a shopping list, and I have to admit I only bought 2 meter lengths of cable and found myself having to splice extensions into the 'signal' wires, leaving me with 3 identical wires to sort out when it came to splicing it all together under the nose. Then my multimeter decided it had had enough (flat battery)... So order the extra meter of the thinner wire and save yourself that headache, colours are up to you, I went with -ve = black, +ve low beam = Red, +ve high beam = Blue and red/blue for the horn.


Why bother? The lights work Okay as they are don’t they?
Yes they do, mine had already had Osram Super Bi-lux bulbs fitted but they can always be improved....



This is some insulation from the OEM high beam +ve, which was easily inserted into the insulation from the wire that replaced it, that’s got 2 hungry bulbs to feed and simply can't cope so you get a drop in available voltage and light output, but all bikes are like this so you don't notice and as a side effect the bulbs could last longer.


What about HID/Xenon conversions?
I have one on my car and it is FANTASTIC! but it is an old BMW, it has projector style headlamp units and gives a very crisp beam pattern, SV's (and almost all other bikes and cars) have reflector light units and these don't control the beam so well but are cheap to make and can be shaped and with a normal bulb they work just fine, with a super bright HID in there the 'beam scatter' can be a headache for anyone going the other way.


To business…

Clear that workbench/freezer top/shelf, its stripping time....
I removed the nose, tank, saddle, air box, and rear plastics then separated the headlight unit from the nose cone.




Chop out the OEM headlight wiring from the light unit and copy in you’re chosen rainbow of new thin wire (1.5mm2) Make yourself a little note of which colour does what, standard is...
Black/White = Earth
Yellow = High beam
White = Dip/low beam
I covered the lot in heat shrink and ran all the Earth through the new heavy duty wiring.




I left the sidelight/indicator +ve wiring in the factory multiplug. I also wired a battery monitor into the sidelights from here...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

next; I worked forwards from the back running all the wires loosely down the left of the bike with the existing wiring and chose a place for the relays to sit.



The compressor for the horn is off to the left of this picture and uses a relay with its own independent fuse.
Next I tapped into the horn wiring and ran the signal wire with the others up to the relay's then when I was happy with the lengths and routeing of the wires they were fed into the heat shrink and cooked with the heat gun, I made a joint between 2 sections of heat shrink for the horn wire to join my new loom.


Next up I put a Z bend of about an inch in some alloy strip and mounted it to the Nautilus trumpets and bolted the other end with the same bolt as the standard squeaker.




Now route the air hose with the wiring and across in front of the battery up to the compressor then finish crimping the ends onto the wires and click them into the relay holders and front multiplug.




The Voltage light wires are in the left of this picture, I left the dip beam feed through the OEM multiplug as it was and from the other side it runs to a rocker switch, the output from this switch runs down what was the yellow high beam wire and then off to the low beam relay as the trigger signal, where the high beam wire was cut it is spliced to the high beam relay trigger. The switch also has a small green LED so this earths through the OEM earth wire.


All done? Re-fit the air box and tank and connect the headlight unit to the bike and give it a test, if all is well its time to put your bike back together

Oh... Don't test the nautilus in a closed garage, I was very happy that I had not yet connected the compressor to the air pipe

Just resurected my multimeter and measured the voltage drop in my new wiring.... 0.17v

I didnt do a before because the meter was dead but i have read that 2v or more is common