SV bulb upgrade, I've had an idea....

So, I'm getting rid of my HID's because I'm bored of having no high beam and all the wires etc etc.

The thing I don't like about h4 bulbs though, Is that when you put them into high beam, you can light up far enough ahead but the road immediately infront of you isn't anywhere near as bright. Vice versa problem obviously when on dip.

I've got an SK1. Having 2 headlights of course. Is there any way how I can make only one light go into high beam and the other staying on dip. Then when put into dip mode, both lights are on dip.

Is there a simple way of doing this? Does it sound like a good idea or can you guys think of a reason why it shouldn't be done?

Any thoughts much appreciated. Cheers.

I like it! Don't see why it would be illegal/dangerous either, but then what do I know.

Dead easy to do with a 12V DPDT relay, I scribbled a diagram below... two Y shaped mini-looms, two H4-to-relay jumper wires, a relay and a diode. This is fitted to the side which you want to remain dipped; all it does is feed the low beam side of the bulb from the hi beam circuit, leaving hi-beam completely deactivated. No chopping of the loom either.

12V DPDT automotive relays aren't common, but there are plenty of alternatives.

Thank you! Much appreciated!

Now give me a little while to get my head around that diagram. (I'm a plumber, so electrics aren't my thing lol)

This is what I was thinkIng of, although it may not work?

Buying female and male h4 plugs. I'd then link the 2 together as follows:

Hi >diode > low
Low linked in with low above via diode also
Earth > earth (if that third wire is an earth and not a neutral? Lol)

I understand a diode is a one way valve? So I assumed I'd need these in there? I could then plug the bulb in one end, and the factory h4 plug into the other?

Like I say, I'm abit crap at this, you obviously have much better understanding than me, looking at that diagram above haha.

Although I could get a h7 female instead of a h4, and use a h7 bulb instead? This would mean I wouldn't have a spare terminal or filament that doesn't get used?

All this thinking is giving me headache haha. I hope you understand what if said?

Cheers
Oli

image.jpg

Best attempt of a drawing I can do on the ipad really lol. It might help though.

[Sid Squid]

That diagram will work - but I respectfully suggest it's making things difficult.

Take a connection from the output from the light switch that goes to the dip switch, connect it direct to low beam on whichever bulb you want as low beam, and leave the other light's wiring alone. When the light switch is at 'on' that light will live up, and stay so when the dip switch is in either position, other light will work as normal. Would be wise to put an inline fuse in the new wiring to the stays-on-low-beam light.

I see exactly what you mean with the two diodes, and it would work just fine! Easier / cheaper than the relay wiring, and with the right diodes would last a long time too. Good solution

I thought about diodes and went for the relay method out of electrical robustness; if the diodes get shorted for any reason they'll pop quickly, faster than the fuse. So the right diodes are needed... big diodes.

I like it Sid, simples I had assumed the power to the low beam was cut altogether once the high beam was switched on, but of course it's in the handlebar switchgear.

Cheers guys. Ill have a think about this n get somethin put together over the next few days . Ill let you know how it goes.

Obviously not going to be amazingly good as the light output isnt increased, its just spread out more. So shall have to see how it fairs against stock i guess. Itll keep me busy for a week or so atleast anyway haha.

Cheers

Squid, would the low beam element be lit all the time the lights are on? Then when you go to high beam, it makes the second element come on also? So when your in high beam, you have both the bulbs elements on at the same time?

If so, wont this overheat and burn out the bulb?

Cheers

[NTECUK]

You will need to isolate the original low beam power on the permanent on low . so if you fit a new H4 connector .it won't have to include the Hi beam feed .Then only the low is on.
If you don't both lows will be on all the time .
Poor loom ....

[Sid Squid]

The stays-on-low-beam light should have it's high beam connection removed, or, as rightly said, that bulb would have both filaments on when high beam is on. I thought that was apparent, perhaps I should have said.

Yes, the overall light output will be slightly reduced, with both high beams on there is 120W - 2 x 60W, (if the original 35W bulbs have been replaced with 60/55W bulbs that is - by now I imagine most Curvys will), with one low and one high there will 55W + 60W - 115W, which is obviously a little bit less, that said I suspect the biggest noticed change will be the area that's illuminated. Try it and see - I'm not certain whether any significant benefit/deficit will be noted.
Some older cars had both low and high beam filaments powered when high beam is on, so the bulb will probably be OK, whether the wiring that was specified for 35W bulbs that's now carrying 60W bulbs would handle even more load is an interesting question, also the bulb would be running hotter and the headlight is entirely made of plastic, but some have used 100W bulbs and reported no problems - so who knows?