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#1 |
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Guys, I have just finished fitting the emulators and springs. All went till the end when I'm not too sure what's going on.
Trying to fit the fork caps so back the preload off and the first one screwed straight in no bother and I torqued it up to 23nm. Then on to the second and it felt a bit stiff so if took it off and tryed it without the spacer and it went on ok. So tryed again with the spacer in and to get the cap flush I have to torqued over the 23nm recommend and it still isn't perfect probably 1/2mm out. So undone the caps and their was a small amount swarf on the thread which cleaned off. The thread doesn't look crossed . Any ideas what's wrong? Thanks |
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#2 |
Noisy Git
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Thread picked up a bit of crap and made a bit of a mess of it by the sounds of things, or perhaps crossed a bit. They can be a bugger.
If it goes on OK now you've cleaned the swarf off then be right. Just be careful getting the threads to start.
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#3 |
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I hope so just but if I take it off it picks up more swarf. If it's crossed is the cap that goes or both the cap and scantion
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#4 |
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It's very easy to cross the threads on these. Take the cap off and inspect it. I'd expect the cap to get damaged before the tube. You shouldn't need a torque wrench until the joint is flush, perhaps swap the caps over and be very careful re fitting them
Jambo Sent without a real keyboard
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#5 |
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Thank you guys, just swapped the caps round and they went in perfectly. So curiosity got the better of me so swapped they back around and the problem came back. My bike has made its mind which cap fits in which fork. Who says Japanese bike don't have soul.
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#6 |
Noisy Git
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Steel vs ally there's only one winner, unlikely to damage the stanchion.
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#7 |
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Chris ive got a sk3 and im will be doing the job in the next month. You want to let me know what you had to get? eg. spacers. What springs you got against your weight.... fork oil etc....
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#8 |
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I used ktech 0.85 linear springs, the emulators turned 2 1/2 turns from the sring just been touched and 10wt RSF fork oil. I set the air gap to 120mm with emulators in and finally I used the stock spacer and just backed the preload all the out.
I haven't tested it yet as the bike still having abit of worm done. Hope this helps |
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#9 |
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Oem spacers? ... thats a new one. Most people get them machined or get them made.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#10 |
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I think your thinking of the damper rod, if so I got Yorkie Chris to make me a set with reduced diameter, welded comp hole and drilled out the damper holes
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