Misbehaving clutch... - SV650.org

northwind · 07-07-05, 06:20 PM

So, my clutch has added a new trick to its usual tricks... I've played with the adjusters at both ends but to be honest I'm not totally sure what i'm doing with the locknut/screw preload thing, so I could use a bit of advice...

Basically, it's slipping at wide-open throttle whenever I'm anywhere near peak power... But lever play is pretty much spot on. On the other hand, it also won't select neutral 9/10 while the engine is running- so I've got a slipping issue, and a not-disengaging issue, both at the same time

Sid Squid · 07-07-05, 06:37 PM

First off make sure it's adjusted right, like this:

Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod back out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.

If that fails to do anything useful, check that the lifter's working right and the ramps and balls aren't knackered, if not that then the cover's going to have to come off to examine the plates, clutch basket and hub, which could be warped or notched.

northwind · 07-07-05, 06:43 PM

Yup, that's how I've got the lifter set up... I'll check the ramp and ball mechanism tomorrow- who knows, just redoing the setup from scratch might help.

Cheers mate. I know nothing about clutches!

M.C. · 07-07-05, 07:42 PM

when i had my k1 the clutch started slipping and i just needed to slacken the lever a bit so there was about 5mm of play solved my problem

northwind · 07-07-05, 10:53 PM

Nah, play's spot on- but at the moment I either have no neutral and a slight drag, or I have the slip under high power- there's no setting where I can get a middle ground.

embee · 08-07-05, 03:26 PM

JASO-MA oil or car stuff?

northwind · 11-07-05, 02:01 PM

10W-40 Castrol GPS semi-synth for bikes. I am not Andrew Charnley

But good suggestion, thanks.

11-07-05, 05:53 PM

You should try to leave a little bit of play with the cluthc too ... the owners manual will give you a range to go by in terms of cable slash ... I just don't like seing somepople that have no slack at all... it makes it so that when you release the clutch that the fisrt portion still keeps it in neautral and its not as smooth in terms of gear shifting transistions...

northwind · 11-07-05, 06:58 PM

took it to bits to have a proper look... There's an obvious shortage of ball bearings in the bearing/ramp arrangement, and the whole thing's kind of wobbly. It's never been problematic till now but then I suppose it could easily have sustained wear or damage over time because of the shortage- most likely I made a disaster of rebuilding it back when I did the ignition advancer mod, but it's possible it's been like that since I got it.

I've got a better compromise now, no slip and it'll hit neutral while moving, just not stationary- that'll do me till I can pick up some replacement balls and rebuild it, see if that works. Seems possible it'll be too worn for that though, I'll see.

Another thing that I'm very aware of, though, is that despite it being a fairly new cable the adjustors are right on the limit of their range, which doesn't bode well for the clutch in general- am I right in thinking that this could be caused by heavily worn plates? Or is it mor likely a side effect of the lifter problem?

Cheers all, especially Sid Squid (again)

Sid Squid · 11-07-05, 08:51 PM

Northy

Cut your losses and just buy a new lifter thingy*, whilst the balls do wear the lifter screw is pretty soft material and takes more wear than the balls do, it's unlikely that new balls will do any great deal of good if the screw hasn't got smooth tracks, add to that the clevis pin and the hole in the lifter lever often wear a bit oval too.
Generally speaking clutch wear makes tightens the adjusters, (usually more than offset by wear in the lifter and associated bits), as the fitted thickness off the clutch reduces as the plates wear, most likely your slack cable is due to lost motion as a result of wear in the lifter.

* About £25ish, IIRC, pack it up well with some sticky grease when you fit it, it needs little provocation to start wearing.

07-07-05, 06:20 PM	#1
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	Misbehaving clutch... So, my clutch has added a new trick to its usual tricks... I've played with the adjusters at both ends but to be honest I'm not totally sure what i'm doing with the locknut/screw preload thing, so I could use a bit of advice... Basically, it's slipping at wide-open throttle whenever I'm anywhere near peak power... But lever play is pretty much spot on. On the other hand, it also won't select neutral 9/10 while the engine is running- so I've got a slipping issue, and a not-disengaging issue, both at the same time __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

07-07-05, 06:37 PM	#2
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	First off make sure it's adjusted right, like this: Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod back out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock. If that fails to do anything useful, check that the lifter's working right and the ramps and balls aren't knackered, if not that then the cover's going to have to come off to examine the plates, clutch basket and hub, which could be warped or notched. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

07-07-05, 06:43 PM	#3
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	Yup, that's how I've got the lifter set up... I'll check the ramp and ball mechanism tomorrow- who knows, just redoing the setup from scratch might help. Cheers mate. I know nothing about clutches! __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

07-07-05, 10:53 PM	#5
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	Nah, play's spot on- but at the moment I either have no neutral and a slight drag, or I have the slip under high power- there's no setting where I can get a middle ground. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

11-07-05, 02:01 PM	#7
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	10W-40 Castrol GPS semi-synth for bikes. I am not Andrew Charnley But good suggestion, thanks. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

07-07-05, 07:42 PM	#4
M.C. Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: West Midlands Posts: 281	when i had my k1 the clutch started slipping and i just needed to slacken the lever a bit so there was about 5mm of play solved my problem

08-07-05, 03:26 PM	#6
embee Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 2,801	JASO-MA oil or car stuff?

11-07-05, 05:53 PM	#8
04SV650S Guest Posts: n/a	You should try to leave a little bit of play with the cluthc too ... the owners manual will give you a range to go by in terms of cable slash ... I just don't like seing somepople that have no slack at all... it makes it so that when you release the clutch that the fisrt portion still keeps it in neautral and its not as smooth in terms of gear shifting transistions...

11-07-05, 06:58 PM	#9
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	took it to bits to have a proper look... There's an obvious shortage of ball bearings in the bearing/ramp arrangement, and the whole thing's kind of wobbly. It's never been problematic till now but then I suppose it could easily have sustained wear or damage over time because of the shortage- most likely I made a disaster of rebuilding it back when I did the ignition advancer mod, but it's possible it's been like that since I got it. I've got a better compromise now, no slip and it'll hit neutral while moving, just not stationary- that'll do me till I can pick up some replacement balls and rebuild it, see if that works. Seems possible it'll be too worn for that though, I'll see. Another thing that I'm very aware of, though, is that despite it being a fairly new cable the adjustors are right on the limit of their range, which doesn't bode well for the clutch in general- am I right in thinking that this could be caused by heavily worn plates? Or is it mor likely a side effect of the lifter problem? Cheers all, especially Sid Squid (again) __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

11-07-05, 08:51 PM	#10
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	Northy Cut your losses and just buy a new lifter thingy, whilst the balls do wear the lifter screw is pretty soft material and takes more wear than the balls do, it's unlikely that new balls will do any great deal of good if the screw hasn't got smooth tracks, add to that the clevis pin and the hole in the lifter lever often wear a bit oval too. Generally speaking clutch wear makes tightens the adjusters, (usually more than offset by wear in the lifter and associated bits), as the fitted thickness off the clutch reduces as the plates wear, most likely your slack cable is due to lost motion as a result of wear in the lifter. About £25ish, IIRC, pack it up well with some sticky grease when you fit it, it needs little provocation to start wearing. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

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