Front forks - crap design warning

This quite definitely applies to older curvy models and, unless they've changed the design, almost certainly also applies to the later pointy squirters.
On the bottom of the damper tubes in the front forks goes something my Clymer manual calls an Oil Lock Piece. I don't know what Haynes call them, as I wouldnt use one of their manuals to light a bonfire, but I'd guess its something similar. It's made of white plastic, is shaped a bit like a crown-less top hat and is about an inch and a half across and two inches tall.
The problem is that it tapers slightly and is a wedging fit in the bottom of the fork tubes, with the result that if the fork top nut is removed and the fork tube then allowed to drop into the slider (which is almost guaranteed to happen when changing fork oil/seals) the whole damned shooting matching locks up solid!
Brute force and ignorance (Belting the brake caliper mounting lugs as hard as you dare with a mallet or similar) is the only way of seperating them. If you are replacing the seals dont bother removing the tube from the slider without first addressing this problem as you havent a hope in hell of getting the Lock Piece out once they're apart.

Incidentally; Anyone who's replacing their fork seals and doesnt want to shell out the vast amounts of dosh Suzuki are asking for the special tool to drive them in should get themselves along to B&Q and buy a length of their smaller-diameter drainpipe, made by Marley and intended for use on garden sheds and similar. In costs well under a fiver for far more than you need and has exactly the right internal and external diameters to make the perfect seal driver.

This might explain why the sliders on mine have got stuck when I've had the forks out and pumped them to get the oil out.

I thimk Northwind came across this problem too, but he invented something simple to help him out, I dont understand why you dont use Haynes manuals as they are at least written in English

[Sid Squid]

The oil lock piece is tapered as you say, and if you let the fork fully compress then it'll stick on said bit, so don't, but if it should happen anyway, clean the fork stanchion so that you can grip it with your hands and give it a sharp tug and it'll come out and just be fine, no smacking of anything with hammers is necessary.

The oil lock piece is there so that when the fork is filled with oil and the suspension compresses fully, an hydraulic stop will exist before there is any metal to metal contact, this is intended to happen and is not a fault, neither of design or manufacture, it is intended to stop violent bottoming out and damage to the fork internals, and is a completely conventional feature of motorcycle forks and other hydraulic devices.

Another useful way to fit the seals is to take the old seal, and with a sharp knife cut away the lower inner part of the seal lip - the bit with the spring on it - also trim the rubber off of the outer face so that it will no longer fit neatly in the seal recess, voila - seal fitting tool, use with light hammer/mallet, a perfect fit and rubber faced ensuring no damage to the seal.

[northwind]

Yup, I did that- and also Jimmy did it when we did his forks, the tool... and like Sid Squid says it's dead easy to sort. For the feeble, rod through the axle hole, step on the rod, pull, sorted. Not an issue. But it always takes just slightly more force than you'd think, just to make you worried.

Replaced the fork seals myself a month ago and it was a bloody nightmare! In the end I had a broom handle up the forks with a marigold (glove) on the end for grip

[Spanner Man]

Evening all.
It helps to invert the forks and pump them in and out many times and leave them for a while to drain out as much oil as possible from them. This helps prevent them sticking in the fully compressed position.
As Sid says, the oil lock piece is a fairly standard part of conventional fork design, so this problem occurs on the majority of front forks if the above is not followed.
10 outa 10 Sid for your advice on fitting new seals using the old ones! I've been doing that for YEARS with never a problem! And the same principle works with wheel bearings too!

Cheers

[Sid Squid]

Likewise steering bearings run down a bit on the bench grinder, best fitting tool available !

[Spanner Man]

You've got it Sid!!!! A man after my own heart!!!

Whilst I'm changing the oil seals, could I do something to remove that dreaded clunk sound or is this still a mystery thing as to what causes the noise?