Neutral indicator light switch / ignitior retarder???

Had to take out the neutral indicator switch today cos the light had stopped coming on when in neutral.

before i took the switch off i tested for continuity between the blue wire and earth as per the haynes manual and was surprised at 2 things.
First the reading on my multimeter varied between .25 ohm and 500 ohm (or basically continuity / no continuity) depending on the position of the gear lever, just moving the lever slightly up and down, nowhere near changing gear.
Secondly there are 4 wires coming from the switch up to the connector but someone has done a very expert job of taking 2 of the wires out of the connector block and sealing the ends with heat shrink tubing.
The wires concerned are the red/white and green/black wires that go to the ignition control unit, is this a very simple way of disabling the restrictor in 1st and 2nd gear?

Anyway, cleaned the switch face with a little emery, put it all together and added 2.5 litres of Halfords finest semi synthetic and oil filter and all is working fine.

Is this on a curvy?
The connector on the left side under the tank?

Yep that's the way I did mine you can always put the wires back in if you want to!! It removes the restriction in 2nd and 3rd gears!!

I did mine at the black box, just seemed easier.

Yep, 1999 curvy s model, pyramid hugger, fenda extender, braided hoses, naked handlebar risers with renthal superbike gold bars, cut down screen, looks well wicked (apart from the botch job i made of repairing the fairing after i caught the front r/h indicator with a bag of cement)

Sounds good, got any pics?

Welcome to the forum

No pics as yet, only finished handlebar mods last weekend, some dude was selling the risers and superbike bars on e-bay, got them for £31, just took off the top yoke, marked it up, drilled 2 holes in it, fitted the risers (not sure if they are the genuine suzuki sv ones cos they dont look like the ones in the haynes manual, but v. close), got Pitstop bike breakers in Lowton to make me up a new longer braided hose (stainless fittings, took him 5 mins, £15 quid, highly recommended, he also made up a new connector block for me when i wanted a new reg/rect unit last year and he sold me a cbr 600 one for £35 with new connector block to match sv wiring, again highly recommended, talented bloke).

All other cables were ok, just had to drill the renthal bars to fit the bar switch lugs, cut off the "ears" from the screen make a little bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir and away i went.

The only trouble was getting hold of the security torx bits to take off the ignition barrel so i could get top yoke off.

You can get the torques bits from machine mart £5 but make sure there the ones with the holes in them!!!