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18-11-06, 09:15 PM | #1 |
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2000 SV650 - sat in hot summer - now rough idle/slow speed
Hello,
I haven't been on this forum since I bought my SV650 way back in 2000 in CA USA. Since then, the bike has done 11000 miles in the Santa Cruz mountains (oh joy), been shipped to UK and run for 2years then shipped back to Florida where it has just sat in the garage for 6 months. It was running great when it was stored. Now it's cooler here I just started it up (started first time ) and have run a couple of tanks of gas through it. It pulls great on snap opening of throttle and runs great at anything over 3k rpm but has a rough idle and slight misfire at steady speeds less than 3krpm. I changed the plugs and air filter but still have the problem. Any ideas please? Help! Patrick in Port Charlotte |
18-11-06, 09:18 PM | #2 |
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Sticking choke cable mabe!
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18-11-06, 09:19 PM | #3 |
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Sounds like choke stuck open a little, but possably stale fuel or water in carbs..mabey.
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19-11-06, 07:42 PM | #4 |
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How do the choke cables attach to the carbs?
Billy & TSM
thanks for the suggestions. I removed air box this morning and the choke cable outer to the front carb can be pulled away frm the carb body so that 1/4" of inner can be seen. I can't do this with the rear carb cable. Which is normal? I have the w/s manual but the only bit I've found so far (to do with the choke cable) is in the removing the carb section where it simply says, "remove the cold start plunger" (or something like that) as part of the carbs removal sequence. I can't see how or what the cable end attaches to. More help please! Patrick in Port Charlotte |
19-11-06, 08:24 PM | #5 |
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If you follow the choke cables back to the carb bodies. ( the cable splits and one cable goes to the front pot and one to the rear ) You see where it enters the carb body of each carb theres a screw, you'll need to undo that screw to detach the choke cable.
You'll need to take the airbox off and its easier to get at it all if you take the fuel tank off to. the choke plunger screw for the front carb is difficult to get at, but if you have a philips screw driver with a long shaft on it you should be able to get at it. I couldnt undo mine as they were rusted up, ( nasty british winter and SV's don't mix ) so I ended up taking the carbs off the bike and undoing them once I had got the carbs off the bike. HTH
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19-11-06, 08:36 PM | #6 |
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You need to use the correct screwdriver as the screws are made of half melted cheese.I used a pair of mole grips round the screwdriver handle and gave the end of the handle a sharp tap with a mallet to jog the thread.I also filled the plastic case where the cable splits with oil to prevent future problems.
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19-11-06, 08:41 PM | #7 |
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It was the rear one which was the problem on mine, white crusty corrosion at the cable end where it meets the plunger (I reckon flux or something is to blame). Cleaned up and greased and it's been fine ever since.
The other thing is to use some carb/injector (either will be fine) cleaner in the fuel for a bit to help remove any varnish left by the dried fuel in the small jets/passages. |
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