checking chain end of life

[steveg]

My original chain was unscotoilered for 15 k , now on 16.5 with scotoiler on since 15k .

There are no seized links , the chain has stretched slightly unevenly , ie when I adjust to the tightest spot , other parts of the chain are slightly looser that I would like .

If I push the chain up in the middle of the bottom run & try & pull chain from rear sprocket there is about 1 - 2 mm play .

Do you recon it needs changing ?

Cheers Steve

[steveg]

I was up at Bassetts today with some mates , checked the chain on a 3000 miles old triumph & it had a little bit of movement from rear sprocket , so I guess mines ok

Cheers Steve

My chain had nothing done to it for the first 2000 miles. It was then scottoilered for a further 24K. It has obviously stretched a bit, but has no real tight spots and looks in good nick. I'll replace it shortly, just because I am starting to lose trust in it (based solely on the mileage it has done).

Anyone know if you can buy "all in one loop" chains for the SV (K4), IE ones without a split link/that you don't rivet? I know this entails taking the swing arm off, but I'm prepared to do that (I'm a bit paranoid re: chains snapping as I've seen it happen to 2 people).

After fitting a chain with a mate last Friday I honestly wouldn't worry about the rivet link giving way if it's peened properly. I've not heard of anywhere selling chains in a loop. However if you are changing your chain it's wise to change your sprockets too. For a kit I would definitely recommend:

http://www.bandcexpress.com/

Top service, next day delivery and good prices.

Originally Posted by Heed

After fitting a chain with a mate last Friday I honestly wouldn't worry about the rivet link giving way if it's peened properly. I've not heard of anywhere selling chains in a loop. However if you are changing your chain it's wise to change your sprockets too. For a kit I would definitely recommend:

http://www.bandcexpress.com/

Top service, next day delivery and good prices.

Ta, I'll bear them in mind if I can't find all in one chains. I'll definately be replacing sprockets at the same time (even though my sprockets, if anything, show less wear than the chain)- my brother has warned me about doing that. Is it right it leads to the new chain wearing prematurely as it doesn't fit the shape of the sprockets which had bedded into the old chain?

I think the suzuki chains are endless.

Originally Posted by John Burt

I think the suzuki chains are endless.

The original chains are - I got one on mine.

OEM chains are endless - I had to hacksaw through mine - but none that I know of are supplied endless.

TBH I was unsure of using a chain tool at first, but I had no problems at all with the chain. It takes very little pressure to peen the rivet to stop it moving.

As for chainging them together - yes you are correct. Even if the sprockets are hardly worn, they will increase the wear on your chain. They should both be bedded in as new (kinda like changing pads if you change discs).

Steve - are you at Bassetts tomorrow? If so, I'll look out for you.

To answer you question about knowing when to change: You need to measure between the 1st and 21st link. The manual should state what the stretch limit is. If it is over this, or if the chain looks badly worn, then replace.

mine has done about 7500 miles, it touches the swing arm at the top and i know its pretty loose . . . i dont know how to tighten it? but i dont want it to get worse and then throw me . . . anyone in nottingham fancy making a 10er??? . . .help? ?

Easy as. Untighten the rear axle nut and the brake torque arm nut. Then turn the adjusters on the 'arm until you have the right amount of play. Tighten nuts back to the right torque. Job done.