Newbie with battery (hopefully) issues

Sorry I know this is a question that has been asked before, and I know there is a chance it is either my battery or my RR (not sure what that is though ) But I'd like some specific and general advice.

My battery has given up on me twice in the last 10 days. Both times I stalled and after it wouldn't start again. They first time I was close enough to home to wheel it back and put the battery on charge. But today I had to call the other half out and jump it off the car.

I want to work out whats wrong, hopefully just needs a new battery, but I don't really know where to start to investigate.

Is there anywhere I can find a write up on what voltages etc should be. I've seen you guys talking about battery problems on here a few times and talking about various multimeter readings, but it's all a bit confusing to me.

I've no real mechanical experience but I'd like to learn how to do some things myself on the bike, and this seems like it might be a good place to start. Any idiots guide typ posts or pointer greatly appreciated

Cheers
Jon

what bike is it? & how old is the battery?

it sounds like its either the battery or the rr regulater rectifier.

if the battery is quite old, it might be worth replacing? i got a 2nd hand one from a breakers for £15 or can you borrow one, just to see if its the battery or not.

It's a 99 650. I've no idea how old the battery is. Only had the bike about 3 weeks.

Originally Posted by Jay1

It's a 99 650. I've no idea how old the battery is. Only had the bike about 3 weeks.

i think you can get the battery checked, or check it yourself, not sure how though

[dizzyblonde]

Get a new battery, look in your haynes manual for the type. should be along the lines of YTX12A-BS. or its written on the side. when you go to buy one make sure its the precise number for your bike. people like to palm you off with'' oh it should fit'' and you get it home after paying 40 quid and find its too tall. which has happened to both me and im indoors. If you have an alarm, these drain them and if you do short journeys a lot like me. I see you have posted on the other thread about my bike, and thats a whole load of problems to deal with later when you've ruled out the battery
Hope this is helpful

My '99 S won't start with the lights on, this sounds like the battery but it's been like this for 3 years with the same battery so its not. It starts well winter or summer with the lights turned off. If I should forget to turn the lights off when starting I then need to switch off the lights and ignition for about 20 seconds then try again when the bike will start no problem.
It won't start hot with the lights on either.

When you've had problems, have your lights been on - have you kept turning the engine over until the battery has flattened or was the battery flat almost immediately? If you can crank the engine over a fair few times before the battery flattens it may not be a battery problem.

No it's not that sort of problem. It's started ok all the time i've had it, not instantly but acceptable. Both times it's gone wrong have been when I have stalled when puuling away from stationary, after I've been fiding for 5-10 minutes. Whe I go to re-start it doesn't turn over at all, just an electrical noise from the starter, and a half hearted attempt to start. Any further tries after that are even worse.

[dizzyblonde]

someone been fiddling with your carbs? I had that with my 125 ,years ago, turned out it wasn't battery at all but a combinaton of carbs blocked, tivk over thingy, clutch set up wrong and stuck choke- which is common on the SV by the way.
Could be one of any possibilities

Nope it's deffinaely electrical cos as soon as I charged the battery, or jump started it it was fine.

[yorkie_chris]

I'd look at the charging system, as if it won't start after its been running a while then the battery obviously isn't charging. So, if problems persist with a new battery on there then do this lot...

Check the voltage to the battery, it should be 13.5 to 15.5 at 5000rpm with the lights on.
If not, check the red wire that goes to the RR has continuity to battery live and the black has continuity to earth.
Then check the alternator output, should be 70v (AC, not that I'd ever forget that...) between each of the yellow phase wires and any other.
If these checks come back good then its the RR thats had it.

The RR and the connectors you need to get to are under the RHS back plastics