Re: rearset replacement
 

I wouldn't fancy riding a bike where the brake light doesn't come on when you use either brake especially the front. :-?

Re: rearset replacement
 

Both my XR and SV are front brake only, my sports bike which has a race fairing (no lights) only has the brake light working off the rear one but I tend not to use it to much on the road. I only fitted the brake light because I wanted to be able to warn my mates if there was something unexpected round the bend.

Re: rearset replacement
 

Sorry about draggin this thread back up folks, i picked up a set of gbmoto and they arrived today,

Also got the pressure switch that goes along with it.... however i'm at a loss as to how the switch attaches to the break assembly ? or how the silver part/ bolt attaches to any thing ?

http://photos5.pix.ie/22/D9/22D9E92E...750596-800.jpg


http://photos5.pix.ie/51/0B/510BA6D4...98D0F3-800.jpg

Re: rearset replacement
 

The pressure switch replaces the stock banjo bolt (the bolt that connects the brake line to the master cylinder) in the rear master cylinder. It does not attach directly to the rearsets (although the rear master is attached to the rearsets in turn).

You will need to cut the wires leading to the stock spring-trggered switch and splice the new switch in place (pretty sure it doesn't matter which wire to which, but best to check before crimping/soldering and taping it up).

I've just installed the same rearsets - I had to order a slightly longer than stock rear brake line to be able to attach the rear master to the new rearsets in it's new position. I called Hel on a Thursday afternoon and the new line arrived in my mail Friday AM. I ordered an SV650 rear-line that was +40mm, but probably could have gone ~+20mm. Best to measure yours as I suspect they're not all made exactly the same length to start with. Cost from Hel was £29 delivered.

I had to slightly shorten the hose between the master cyclinder and resevoir to stop it from kinking - trimmed maybe a few mm from either end. The hose still has a slight kink, but not so much it would prevent the fluid from moving through it.

I also had to buy new M8 fasteners to mount the rearsets to the frame as the heads on the stock ones were too large (diameter) to fit the countersunk holes. Screwfix has M4, M6, and M8 cap and button-head stainless and zinc-plate fasteners in packs of 50 for dirt cheap.

Screwfix also has a decent, cheap brake bleeding kit -not the pressurised or vacuum sort -but it works well enough. I bought a small container of Dot 4 brake fluid from Wilco for just over £1 that was more than enough to do the job.

Re: rearset replacement
 

Wow, thats some reply ! i'm pretty much set i'd say, the only thing thats burring me is this one bolt / attachment i assume it has something to do with a return spring to keep the break lever in an upright position.


http://photos4.pix.ie/C4/E2/C4E29E74...9446C6-500.jpg

What connects here ?

As for the bolts and cables i think the set i have might do the job there dont look stock .... could be wrong, and the brake lines are braded and as the sets are moving back and up a little they should be ok ..

Sorry about the rust ...augh ..nasty
http://photos5.pix.ie/F3/F6/F3F69258...79D851-500.jpg

Underneath the muck and dirt
http://photos2.pix.ie/58/DE/58DEC9B9...B30BFF-500.jpg

Above it

http://photos2.pix.ie/D2/82/D282485F...AC5257-500.jpg

Re: rearset replacement
 

That silver part looks like where the rear brake master cylinder push rod attaches to. the main body of the master cylinder should fasten up near the top of the rearset with two fasterners, then the push rod connects to the rear of the lever so that it can be operated by your foot.

The pressure switch replaces the banjo bolt in the very top of the master cylinder.

Re: rearset replacement
 

Ahh you have a curvy? Mine is a pointy so my brake line arrangement is different.

Your mounting bolts look like they're cap head so you're probably OK there.

Flymo is right -the pushrod of your master cylinder threads into that silver fitting that's attached to the new brake lever. On my bike that pushrod came with a "U" shaped attachment on the end of the threaded section which I had to remove - from memory it's held in place with 2 nuts - just unthread them and thread the pushrod into the new silver fitting - adjusting for lever position.

Edit - you'll notice there's 2 possible positions for that fitting on the brake lever. I used the outboard one as it seemed to be a straighter line when fitting to the master cylinder-yours might be a bit different. I suppose it changes the leverage ratio a little as well.

Re: rearset replacement
 

Yup i'm with ye now, this bolt from the bottom goes though it

http://photos2.pix.ie/F4/ED/F4EDB91C...F218FE-500.jpg

So that means there's no springs to bring the leaver back up ? right

Spring and connector
http://photos3.pix.ie/3E/E9/3EE90364...8B74DA-500.jpg



yup sorry it's a curvy model ..

Re: rearset replacement
 

That's right. And yeah no more spring, bu the line pressure is enough to return it, especially with the bearing in the lever.

BTW - don't forget to loctite everything. I didn't do mine initially while I was deciding on position. Went for a 1-hr ride and several of the bolts had gotten quite loose.

Re: rearset replacement
 

On the new rearset you have a smaller hole just in front of that silver bolt in your picture. Thats probably for the spring. It will need a spring or it wont return to normal position.

....or, there seems to be a slight indentation in the middle of that silver bolt itself, maybe they intend for the spring to hook around that.