Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

Bibio, Why would putting copper grease on the threads before tightening them up cause the threads to strip? Also stainless to stainless nut bolt combinations should never be done dry as there is a significant risk of the nut and bolt cold welding.

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

copper grease is very slippy and putting the stuff on bolts before you tighten can strip the threads, especially if you torque to 'specified' or your ham fisted. SS bolts dont cold weld to SS nuts, problems arise when using aluminium in the mix as the two hate each other.

torque settings are for brand new threads mostly dry. applying a slippy substance to threads lessens the friction, less friction = less effort to reach a certain point.

if your going to copper grease any bolt threads and a torque wrench then drop the torque setting by 10-25% depending on how new each thread part is.

if you dont believe me there is a simple test. get some used and new nuts and bolts. clamp the head of a new bolt or nut and put in a vice, torque till the bolt or nut strips the threads or breaks then set the torque wrench at that torque. next apply copper grease to a new set of bolt/nut then repeat the process. repeat the above steps with the used nut and bolts.

now i'm not saying dont use copper grease on threads but be careful when you do and dont go mad with the stuff, a very very thin coating is all that is needed to stop corrosion. i like to dab around 1/8th of the thread tip in my copper grease tin then insert the bolt. only time i use copper grease is on external fasteners or blind holes that i know are going to cause problems later on like frame mounts etc.etc.

only time i use a torque wrench is on critical bolts inside an engine.

if your bolt has a 'shank' then you can put as much as you like on that part as long as its not touching the head or will squeeze out and touch the head which again will lessen the friction and reduce the torque.

applying copper grease or indeed any grease to external threads that have already been fastened up reduces the risk of them rotting and yes that includes SS. SS by itself wont corrode its other elements sitting on the surface that eat into the SS. Stain-Less Steel

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

Bibio, I hate to disagree but please research cold welding of stainless steel fasteners. Using different grades of stainless lessons the likely hood but as most people don't know what they have when they get fasteners is it best not to chance it.
I served my time in the nuclear industry so every bolt was a stainless bolt.

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

Hi


Long story short. Clamp thought was a red herring and the rattle is INSIDE the end can. Something in it, or something has come loose inside. It has been on there at least 8 years so maybe it has a problem. I can't get the baffle off (seized). Garage say need to replace the end can. That seems expensive, but it is annoying as it is.


If that's correct, where can I get a budget end can and will it really just slip on to replace the existing one (couple of bolts)? If the pipe was cut when they put the Fuel one on (before I had it) is this a problem? Id get the same again, but that seems very expensive. Do I need to check how wide the pipe is?


Thanks again, much appreciated.

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

This is the thread that led me to fit my Cheap Slip-on,

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=227836

and I bought this for 30 quid-ish

https://tinyurl.com/y9lyteuv

I also bought the little,"Fuel Brand" link pipe(£14) and as my Curvy needed an extra little 30 Deg bend pipe I also bought this,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jetex-Mand...item566a36584b

I had to do a bit of hack sawing and make my own slits at the Can end I recall and hack off the Lug things off the Slip-on and discard the inner sleeve thing that came with the slip-on.Not a hard job once I figured out what needed to be done.


Here's what it sounds like with the Baffle in.I didn't want it any louder,

https://app.box.com/s/50v1t40uzq6mayvxq6edm7cavzd3nxk6


Note:The baffle was only held in with a self tapper and I blew it out<grin> so refitted using an M6 nut and bolt.All solid now :)

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

That looks good, and if it were a straight swop with removing and replacing a couple of bolts I'd happily buy the same one you did. That kind of price is great. I don't want to have to cut things or buy more bits though!

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

+1

SS is well known for 'galling' (cold welding) problem with Stainless bolts that not many people realise is that they are low tensile, SS is low carbon material and won't harden.
Recommended best lubricants are Molybdenum Disulphide and Graphite, but most people have copper grease laying around.

You have to be some special kind of hamfist to strip threads using standard length spanners and socket wrenches though (they are made that length for a reason, smaller spanners are shorter length so don't use a pipe or extension), if using torque wrench reduce quoted torque by about 20% for lubed threads.

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

Fuel can "resleeve and repack" for £50+Postage apparently.

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

Sounds good and with luck less hassle :)

Re: Exhaust Rattle - how to stop?
 

+1