Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

It is worth checking the reg/rec in case a blown diode shows up and confirms its knackered. However unfortunately theres no way to check the transistors that work very hard to dump the excess power and can overheat so you can still need a new unit even though the test results are good. The fluctuating voltage readings obtained could be an indication of transistor failure as its their job to maintain a stable output.....

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

ok so looking at the pics Chris sent, putting negative into B/R and testing positives on the B1/2/3
getting similar readings on the multimeter 587/588 when set to diode mode.

setting positive to B/W and negative to B1/2/3 getting same readings as above. so maybe its not the R/R? i dont really know what to think.

I want to test the stator but a little confused how to do that. Theres quite a few cables by the seat. It looks like its the seat side and not the R/R side I need to test.
https://imgur.com/Q9Pnr8D

Is it the top connector? (under the red plastic sleeve).
Do I need the R/R plugged in at this stage?
I tried searching youtube for a video but couldnt really find one.

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

what did you get B/R to B/W? And did you get off scale for the other readings which is important as diodes can go short circuit or open....

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

so my multimeter when set to diode mode is on 1 or l (I guess 1) when it has no input.

Setting positive to B/W negative to B/R - get a reading of 1170 (dunno what that means but its way higher than the above previous ones where B/R to B1/2/3 were on 587/588?)
Setting positive to B/R negative to B/W - it stays on 1

When you say off scale readings, what do you mean by that? (sorry complete noob).
When I put negative into B/W and testing B1/2/3 it remains on 1 on the multimeter
and reverse positive to B/R and test B1/2/3 I also get 1.

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

Yeah keep the R/R plugged in as you need continuity in the loom, top plug with 3 black wires.

Remember to set your multimeter to AC voltage for this bit, should be 60v + at 5k RPM


RE: the MM showing a 1, If your dial is on 200Ω you may need to go up to 2kΩ and maybe even 20kΩ to get the resolution.


*** Just to verify - When you take the 3wire plug off from the LHS as above, the MM needs to be in Ω to test the coil resistance and then V ac with the engine running, the B1/B2/B3 BR/BR/BW/BW testing is done in diode test mode, where there's a * it should read about 1.4v (the voltage of the MM)

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

Ok thanks Chris.

I’ll hopefully try this tomorrow. Daylight now gone and the garage needs some extra lighting so I can’t see much now.
Ta for all the help so far.
Much appreciated

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

well youre using the meter on diode setting so the 'I' means a high reading ie a high resistance so the diode wont conduct. The other readings are millivolts so for example the 1170 reading corresponds very well to the 0.5 - 1.2v shown in the manual which means the diodes are conducting. In fact all your readings are within the limits shown in the manual but as I say unfortunately that still doesnt mean the RR is good. Youve proved the rectifier part but not the regulator which cant be tested. If the generator tests ok is there anyone you know with a good RR you could borrow to compare?

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

well I pre-emptively bought an electrex r/r. got it for £73 so cant complain with that. Money isnt necessarily an issue. I dont mind replacing faulty parts or even bad parts with better parts if its good for the long run.

I managed to test the stator but only the resistance test. Between all 3 pins it was coming out to 0.8ohm. Showing nothing to ground so seems that first test passed.

I need to test it with the bike on but didnt want to disturb neighbours at 7am revving the bike haha so this is a lunch time test to make sure stator is ok. If its not and I need to replace that and the R/R then atleast I know all parts of the charging system are replaced with good units.

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

I think the generator is going to be ok so theres a pretty good chance the RR is duff.
Just for your interest the systems on most bike are pretty crude and unlike cars. The generator power output depends only on how fast its spinning and if this power isnt used the voltage goes up a lot so the RR has to dump it in the form of heat. Thats fine if you have a good connection to the frame and ample supply of cooling air but if its obstructed or your stationary for a long period the unit overheats and dies. So its best not to run the engine for a long time especially at high revs as for example if testing or trying to charge the battery.
This is why you might as well ride with lights, heated grips, heated jacket etc all turned on as if you dont use the power it'll go to waste anyway....

Re: dead bike (battery?) thread
 

And being a twin it's basically a heatsink anyway