Re: Clutch Wrist
 

There should be a bit of free play in the clutch lever- I've found this myself. Not too much, as pulling the lever right in will not fully disengage the clutch, but if there's no free play. the clutch could slip too.

I'm finding that I'm losing the free play in the throttle after a couple of rides and have to keep adjusting it- this is making the engine rev when the bars are locked right. Gonna have to look down the cable methinks to find any other causes of this- the locking nut is tightened well when I adjust the lever...

Re: Clutch Wrist
 

Never had any such problem with the SV. The SV was well designed so that you could rotate the clutch lever so it was pointing down more and inline with your arm.

My ZX-6R was a poor design because it could not be rotated down at all because of the cables coming out of the switches etc. Plus it was a very heavy clutch and a more extreme riding position. I used to ride 70 miles on the SV with no pain but would be in agony after 10 miles on the Ninja and would then have to go 2 or 3 days without riding and applied lots of deep heat etc.

After a month of this I had built up a bit and was using a power ball which helped but I never had the range of the SV especially as I do a lot of stop start riding on my journeys. I used to use the clutch for all gear changes but by the end I never used it for up changes otherwise the bike would have been completely unrideable. I don't have the biggest hands which makes matters worse...

I have given up now and got rid of the bike.

Re: Clutch Wrist
 

will have a look at whether moving the lever down makes a difference. I know that with the SV the clutch is not reach adjustable, but the brake lever is. The squash ball method is working though!