Re: Re: cheap heated grips
 

I'll take a photo alongside the stock grips when they get here but I only ordered them yesterday

cheap heated grips
 

I'll measure a set when I get into work tomorrow.

Re: cheap heated grips
 

OK. Highly unscientific measuring but holding an original grip in the air and lining up a see through ruler gives a 'sort of' diameter of 3cm. Doing the same with the Keis ones reads about 3.4cm. I'll let the mathematicians work out what that might mean in the round.

Difference in length is about 3-4 mm.

Out the package I'd agree they look a bit like a little teapot i.e. short and stout. That said, I got them to replace the heated grips currently on the bike which I seem to recall were also short and fat compared to the originals. I'd prefer skinnier grips but cold handed beggars can't be choosers.

Re: Re: cheap heated grips
 

Will a 12V 4pin 30A relay do? And could I run a 12V cig lighter socket through it as well?

Re: cheap heated grips
 

How would the width compare to say the Oxford grips? I have quite wide hands and don't want the grips to feel uncomfortable.

Re: cheap heated grips
 

if it's to switch things on and off then yes thats what a relay does. if you get a 5 pin (twin make and break) you would end up with 2 live out.

Re: Re: cheap heated grips
 

Ok, so the circuit for the grips/socket would go:

Battery > relay > fuse > accessory > earth

And to the relay switching circuit using the rear light:

Fusebox > (splice to relay > earth) lights > earth

I'm guessing the feed from the battery to the relay should be capable of carrying the current for both accessories and that the relay should be rated for both also? Will i need a fuse for the relay switching feed?

Re: cheap heated grips
 

yes

no

no

never cut into the main bike loom unless you have to. take feed from rear brake light switch and below the connector. or make an inline 'splice' connector using same conectors. also remember that the coil needs to go to negitive. (there is no 'earth' on car/bike electrics it's a negative).

reason you never cut into main loom is that it can cause problems later. always use a feed after a connector so if you do get problems you can replace the item you cut into rather than 'splicing' the main loom.

Re: cheap heated grips
 

So the light circuit is:

Battery > fuse > switch > bulb > negative

I was going to use a piggyback connector to pull a feed just after the fuse and keep all the connectors at the seat end of the bike, would that work?

Re: cheap heated grips
 

ok what exactly do you plan on doing.. this thread is about 'heated grips' and your talking about bulbs?????

are you talking about how to power the coil on the relay? if so then '''never cut/splice into main loom''' you can however splice into the rear tail light after the main loom connector as it comes on with the ignition. no you don't need a fuse for the coil part of the relay....

no offence but do you know how a relay works?