Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

farquare:
A little while ago I got a sticking float needle on the rear carb and filled the rear cylinder fairly full of fuel. I tried to start the bike and heard the cheerful sound of 3/4 of a turn followed by a pretty much dead stop. Pulled the plug, turned the motor over to clear it and then fixed the carb problem. The motor's done about 10,000 cheerful miles since.

Where I'm going with this is that it is possible to bend bits of engine under hydraulic lock, but it's no certainty at all that terminal engine damage has occurred.

Like YC I tend to think it's best to start with the basics and make absolutely certain that the issue you have is the one you think you do before worrying about anything too drastic :)

Here's hoping it's nothing too expensive

Jambo

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

With the piston going up and down, if there is a spark and the fuel is getting to the carb then it should run even with a slightly bent rod, (though other problems may exist.) First check the compression with a meter. I would then check the valve mechanism. It depends on where in the stroke cycle you were, if with a hydraulic lock you can bend/break the valve gear. The valve tries to open but cant because of the lock. Certainly worth a check before scrapping it. Still a pain but easier than stripping down to replace a rod.

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

Little bit of an update, I cleaned the carbs a bit and stripped everything down.
Sounded like the front was wanting to fire but seemed quite loud.
Turning over with the leads off and putting my hand over the carb was the eureka moment though, there is very little suction coming from the front cylinder, so it appears to be down on compression due to rods, valves and or crank issues.

Looks like i've been very unlucky, if anyone can learn from this it would be if your bikes been over on the near side check there is nothing in the inlet before attempting to start.

Here are a few pics to show the battle scars, looks like we will be parting ways after 3 years. Been a great firtst bike, if i'm honest I was looking to change bikes anyway, but was probably wanting to keep this as my town/commuter steed.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...0/DSC00062.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...0/DSC00061.jpg


Whats the going rate for a semi-runner?

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

Same suction between front and rear?
Pull the front valve cover off and check clearance, if valve is bent then there will be some funny business in there.

I would say £500. Probably more if you parted it out, I'd be interested in the engine.

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

nah, front has much less suck. cheers for all your feedback though, very useful.

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

Much less suck is a good sign, most likely its the valve or valve operating train. bit of work but not too expensive.

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

You did stick the front plug back in before you tested for suction at the carb didn't you? Easy mistake on an SV because it's out of sight out of mind.

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

yeah, they were both in, just the leads disconected

Re: hydrolocked engine grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
 

I think you need to do a bit more investigation before writing it off IMO. Like Ralph, I think the chance of bending a rod on the starter is very slim, but there is a possibility of valve train damage. At the very least take the front cam cover off and see what's happening. A valve clearance check will quickly reveal a bent valve, and it may even be more obvious than that.

I'll try to get the valve cover off and have a look to see what's what.

I've just not really got the time or the space to strip this down and sort. If I had a garage i'd defo do it just to lean. But I cant really have the engine stripped to bits for weeks in the car park.

Sent from my U20i using Tapatalk