SV650.org - SV650 & Gladius 650 Forum - Helibars! More than just for comfort...

Quote:

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris (Post 1611305)

Wheelies or not doesn't matter, you can top out the forks going over a little bump or cresting a hill.

Brake lines don't stretch, if they are too short they'll be ripped out of the fittings and you will lose all front braking power instantly. Really really not advisable!!

Lift the bike up with a jack while on the sidestand, or use an assistant, and make SURE the lines aren't being pulled on.

Thanks for the advice, Pretty confident that there was not any major change in the line once the bars where fitted (had no pulling or yanking of the assemblies to get them back on and being mindful of the words from Heli that this item using all stock lines on the K3, that there should be no issues. Will check again though (no front brake don't really aappeal to me.

For anyone who is interested the following was my work though for fitting the Heli bars to my K3...

Fitting Heli Bars to the SV 650s k3

For anyone interested, here is the run down of how I changed the standard clippons to the Helibars – SV650s K3 (sorry if it’s any different for the curvies can’t imagine that it is but any ways)..

You can attack whichever one you want first but as it looked easiest I opted for the left first so….

First thing is to look under your clutch and front brake lever where you will see the 2 “spade type connectors that deal with your electrics. Unplug the 2 connectors.

Next…

Remove the bar end (have read many issues regarding this relating to an end screw that will not budge and may possibly need an impact screwdriver. All I can tell you is that mine came straight out with no worries)
Remove the grip. – Did this using a small’ish, small shafted but long length screwdriver and dipped it into some neat washing up liquid. Poke the screwdriver up between the grip and the bar and work it round gently until you have managed to separate the grip from the bar. Remove and re-apply as much W.U.L as you need but with the W.U.L now round it to, the grip should whiz off like dream.
Loosen the bolts which hold the clutch lever on. The whole assembly will most likely fall forward with the weight of the lever. Loosen the screws that hold the indicator / light switches. You will need to make sure you undo them enough to allow the small lug which locates into a hole in the top of the bar to allow the whole unit to come off.
With both these items now undone you can continue to carefully remove them. Just rest them on the front dash out of the way.
Crack the head nut (32mm socket) and the pinch bolts to both sides of the top yoke. Continue removing the head nut and make sure the pinch bolts are undone finger tight (no need to completely remove them).
Now Note where the top of the yoke finishes in relation to the top of the forks. Mine was exactly flush. (As per the factory position for the K3 SV. I understand that the curvy should see 3mm of fork above the yoke surface so check this). Pull off the top yoke (may need a tap on the underside with a spanner handle or similar. (Mine just came off with a wiggle on each side as I pulled up.)
With the top yoke off you can undo the bolt holding the original bar on.
Note: For anyone who has never taken the top yoke off your bike (like me) don’t try to get to the bolts that look like they keep the ignition block in place!
Just undoing the 2 pinch bolts which clamp the yoke to the fork is all you need to do! Doh!
Remove the old bar.
Identify and take the left Heli-bar and fit it over the top of the fork. Loosely tighten it (you know what I mean) so it doesn’t fall around. With the bar in roughly the right sort of position you should see that the new centre line of the bar is almost running through the centre line of the fork. (The adjuster screw position.) This is where you get most of your comfort due to the straighter back you can now adopt).
Re-fit the indicator / light switch assembly and make sure you position the locating lug into the hole on the top of the Heli-bar. This position is obviously therefore fixed. With this item back in position you can merely tighten back to completion.
With the indicator / light switch done, you can position the clutch lever and set to a comfortable position. Do not fully tighten yet though, just enough to fix in position.
NOTE: Be very careful not to allow the back plate of the clutch lever bracket to scratch the powder coated bar as you swivel and position the lever. (it’s easily done!) Doh! Again!
Now you can turn the bars to full left lock carefully and then turn the “loose” Heli-bar to the point at which you can obtain full lock without trapping your thumbs. Bear in mind as well that your indicator switch is there so allow enough space for your thumb so you can use if you ever need to at that lock. I positioned mine about 15 – 20mm from the tank.
Make sure the Heli-Bar is approximately at the correct height with regards to allowing the yoke to go back on and then initially tighten the Heli-bar pinch bolts to “lock” the lever into this initial temporary position.

You can now turn your attention to the right bar.

Remove Bar end
Carefully undo and remove the Front brake reservoir and allow to sit where it will.
NOTE: Do not attempt to do anything other than remove the bolt that fixes the reservoir to the clipon!
Loosen the throttle body clamp bolts (the removal of the throttle body and grip will occur when you have the original bar off the bike in order to allow enough slack).
Remove the engine isolator / hazard light switch unit. (Same applies as the indicator side, there is a lug on the top side which locates the unit onto the bar so again just make sure you undo the bolts enough to allow the lug to clear the hole that it fits in on the bar otherwise you’ll be sliding away and nothing will be coming off)!
Undo and slide the old bar off the fork (you may have to adjust the position of your cables to allow some slack).
Slide the throttle body off the bar and discard the bar. (Add with other bar from left side and prepare your e-bay sale!)
Slide the isolator unit off (if you haven’t already removed it).
Repeat the attachment of the new right bar first sliding the throttle body back on and then re-attaching the isolator / hazard switch (Remember you don’t get a choice where this goes as it will again locate in the hole at the top of the bar). Then roughly position the bar at the correct height in relation to the yoke position.
You may want to re-attach the reservoir at this point as it does feel a bit vulnerable just wobbling about on the top of the bike.
Put the bike on full right lock and again, initially tighten at the point where you get full lock with no fouling.
Now you can replace the top yoke. Put it onto the forks and let it slot down to the position it was in before you started. (as said, the K3, according to the manual should be flush with the top face of the forks.)
NOTE: Do not be tempted gain a few more mm in height by setting the yoke above the top face of the forks. Mr. Suzuki says no…….)
Torque the head nut and then tighten the pinch bolts.
NOTE: As long as you have not moved the bike around too much the yoke should just drop back on without any problems. If you have wheeled the bike about during the process then you may have to bump the front wheel up against a solid surface in order to make sure that you take out any bind (changes of angle) between the forks and the yoke.
With the yoke back in position, you are ready to do final setups of Heli-Bar angles and lever angles to suit your preferred riding position.
NOTE: Clutch is just easy – Front brake is where I needed to modify the installation. As mentioned in my previous thread, in order to get my front brake at (what was for me) an essentially comfortable angle, I needed to have the Heli-bars as close to the tank as I dare go and drop the lever as far as it would go before the bottom of the banjo bolt struck the head of the pinch bolt on the right side of the yoke. Looking at it, and where I wanted the lever to be, the only thing stopping it was the stop block on the master cylinder that the banjo sits against. By taking a junior hacksaw and cutting the ally stop on the master cylinder back to just behind the banjo bolt and by then cracking the top banjo nut enough to allow me to turn it, I was able to get the lever down to where I wanted it. The centre line of the banjo bolt is now right through the centreline of where that stop block so it was a considerable distance advantage as you can imagine.
Once all your levers are suited, then re-attach the front brake reservoir, re-position the throttle body and tighten everything up.
Re-attach your left grip by first cleaning off all the Washing Up Liquid then applying a liberal amount of your other half’s finest Complete Brick Hold Hair-Spray (you obviously don’t have any yourself……Unless you are of course a girly-wirly yourself in which case…..Oh never mind….) to the Heli-bar and the inside of the grip. Quickly slid it back up the bar and re-attach the bar end.
NOTE: The bar end may trap the grip in position anyway but with the hairspray routine, I found that one end of the grip still twisted round a bit. Fear Not!!!!! Leave it overnight and you will not be able to move it in the morning for love nor money. (Just refer to the other half on Sunday morning after a Saturday night she wished she’d never had and you’ll know what I mean).
Re-connect your 2 connectors that you took off right at the start and you’re pretty much done.
Torque all screws as per Mr. Suzuki and torque your Heli-Bars to 96 ft /lbs (or 8 Newtons I think!) Definitely 96 ft. lbs though.

Have a good old final run round all your bolts and mentally go over everything being tight and finished,
Take her out for a run and see how it feels. You may have to tinker about with the position but this should be minor.

You may also not need to do what I did to the master cylinder stop. As I mentioned, it seems that some people have different bits and pieces tha affect certain parts of the job but this was pretty much mine.

I hope I haven’t left out any glaringly stupid things but from memory, the whole thing took around 2 hours tops.

Hope it helps someone.

Deano