Rejetting and such
 

Its only a week or so until I'm going to pull the SV apart and play with a few things.

Going to be a micron full system, fuel can cut down to 3/4 length, degutted air filter, raised tank 10mm

Based on info here:
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html

And buying jets here:
http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/mikjets.html

Got some 152.5 mains, going to stick with the 17.5 pilots and raise the needle with 2 washers.
I have heard of some people talking of 160 and bigger mains, but I presume they are different jets using bigger numbers than the mikuni ones?

I was impressed with allens performance's service, delivery was very quick and prices affordable

Re: Rejetting and such
 

You shouldn't need the shims, euro SVs have stepped needles like a dynojet kit so you can raise and lower them. Mine have a wee thin half-step shim in anyway but for basic adjustment you don't need it, just move the jesus clip.

Mine has 185s in it now, but that's with a pretty decent full system and the wide-open BMC race filter. With the desnorkelled stock filter it runs pretty rich. I can't think in Mikuni sizes at all but that seems like the right ballpark. If you need different ones, I should still have a wee selection box of jets somewhere with everything from DJ 150 to 175, which should cover you.

Were you planning to drill the carb slides? I saw Rob Numbers saying it wasn't a good idea a wee while back, which was news to me but was interesting, might be worth looking into that if you are... I did it myself but I can't claim it was an informed decision :D

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Possibly, can't see that the slider oscillation people talk about is harmful, or avoidable in some degree.
Seems like a good idea so long as the hole isn't 1/4" or something daft, as then you'd get the stumbling problems that simple slide carbs have when you whack the throttle open.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Haven't a clue myself ;) I've got a set of undrilled slides which I might try out next year, that post got me interested. I'd fit them today when I do the carb heaters but there's really no point with the weather like this, can't test things properly.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Also what sort of dyno to use?

I don't trust any of them due to the amount of information flying around, dynojet seems to read massively high, most of the braked ones add 30%, just for the sake of it, EC997's manufacturers think they're ace.

What I need is something thats going to read the same as what VOSA would use if I got pulled with regards 33bhp limit, so I can set it up for that.
I'm thinking I need a dyno thats going to put out true bhp accurately without putting 300 fudge factors into the mix just for the sake of fondling some power rangers bolloks.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Yorkie are you still restricted to 33bhp?

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Aye

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Hmm. Haven't the slightest on that one. I go by the quality of the shop/operator rather than the machine, I'd sooner use YPE's DJ200 than most other shops, even if they had better hardware, since I know they can use it and they couldn't care less if I don't like the numbers. But your position's a bit awkward. TBH if I was you I'd stick with the filter as standard and just tweak the jetting to suit the system, but that's boring.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

So you're going to knowingly break the law?

Re: Rejetting and such
 

No, I'm going to set the bike up to make near on 33bhp, as I mentioned earlier, with use of a throttle stop. More torque than stock and some nice induction sound too.

Please don't point me to FI international website saying I need a certificate and have to give them all my money unless you can find a law saying I have to. (I get that from everyone whos read their website, they have a vested interest)

Edit: for the record, if I was going to knowingly break the law I wouldn't be daft enough to put it up on a public forum

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Did the exact same thing to mine(mine was not restricted though). You should run well, except you're going to have to take the restrictor out if it's the standard air intake restriction. That's what I heard it is on our SV650N X. Make sure you have the air mixture screws backed out to 2.5 turns for starters. The restriction should just be brass washers I hear that let a smaller amount of air in. I really only notice the difference up top, when you are on the full main jets, over 1/2 throttle to WFO. In fact, you may lose a hair of snap off stops, but, nothing discouraging. Best ditch the brass or else I'm not sure upping your mains is going to do anything other than flood you. p.s. do not feel obliged to tell me online that you might actually derestrict it:riding:.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

The suzuki kit doesn't use washers, the FI int. kit does though.
The suzuki kit is carb sliders with a hole through them to stop them raising all the way.

The FI kit goes after the carb, so it doesn't really affect mixture.

I'll be using a throttle stop for restriction so it will not affect mixture and be easy to remove when the 2 years is up.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Nice thing is, you can always pick up a new air filter for 60 euro (sterling?) and slap the old jets back in and you'll be back to normal.

other things: The carb screws are butter. If you can, replace them with SS cap screws. Keep a drift or screwdriver handy, I had to pound on a few of them to start them turning, having to replace 4 ouf of 6 or whatever. Watch out, you're likely to get fuel everywhere, so have rags ready. Careful taking the carbs out that you don't break the plastic splitter that turns the single choke cable into two cables. Everyone does. I'd also get a super long phillips head screwdriver for getting the bloody airbox off. Best to do a carb sync everytime you mess with them. It's a really handy time to oil your choke cables. Keep your barrels and carbs covered with rags or foil. Careful not to ding your floats, they are flimsy parts. Also, if you are going to that trouble, check your plugs and if not mint, get new ones.

good luck -D

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WTF SV do you have? Thought you had a carbed curvy. Don't pay attention to me. I see you're an engineer (student). Nerd. Me too.

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When he's talking about FI, that's a manufacturer of restrictors not as in Fuel Injection ;)

Re: Rejetting and such
 

See what I mean, don't pay attention to me...](*,)

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Stainless cap screws and copper slip is a great idea.
Usually takes an impact driver to get the bowl off too.

The mixture screw on the front is going to be the total pig to move, might even have to drill it :smt013

Re: Rejetting and such
 

You may not know until you get the carbs off if the mixture screws are already accessible or not, as the access to them is terrible in situ. Mine supposedly came from Germany, and had them open, whether stock or by a previous owner. They were at 2.5 turns out already. I tried 2.75 and it was way too rich. You need this ultra rare tool, a flathead screw driver made of unobtanium with a 90 degree swivel on it to mess with them in situ. You can undo the throttle cables on the carb though, leave the choke cables in and free up the idle cable and bend the carbs enough in place to adjust them. Much easier than taking the whole carb body off again. 2.5 is pretty generic though and should work. You might start with a new filter too, mine is probably stock, and super dirty inside, so who knows what kinda flow I'd get with a clean one?? I just didn't want to butcher a new one.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

Had them off before, couldn't shift the front screw at all.
Might make a tool, or might just set it up to 2.5 and leave it at that unless thats way out.

Re: Rejetting and such
 

I mucked about with mine for ages, then eventually set them back to 2 and a half. The joys of trial and error.

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Hopefully 2.5 will work. Curious to see what's up with your one stuck screw. One of mine has a strange feel when screwing, like the spring behind it is spinning or binding. Seems to work fine though. Good luck, let us know what settings work.