Originally Posted by rictus01 (Post 1759101)

well it depends, if you have a fetish for using chain riveting tools, or kneeling behind the bike spraying grease or indeed enjoy dropping the bike off for C&S changes, then no don't bother.

However if you intend to actually use the bike, want to get at least double the mileage from your C&S, then as the man says it's a good idea.....:D

Cheers Mark.

Originally Posted by the_elements_600 (Post 1759103)

The only thing I find though is that it only lubricates one side of the chain, but other than that, it works exceptionally well.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris (Post 1759107)

Oil is not needed on the sideplates, you are lubing the rollers.

Originally Posted by Stu (Post 1759105)

So what yougoing to do on your 404?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris (Post 1759096)

Not too hard.

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

A drive chain as I'm sure you know is constructed of two types of links, the inner and the outer. The outer link sideplates are connected together by pins that you see peened over, (rivetted), on the sides of the plates. The inner link plates are connected together in a similar way except that the joining pins are hollow - a bush. Those two parts make a bearing upon which the links articulate, the pin passing through the bush. In an unsealed chain - a non 'O' ring chain - you need to lube this joint or the chain will soon be excessively worn, it can be oiled from either side as the pin and bush have a clearance between them allowing them to move and allowing lubricant between them, if they didn't it would soon sieze. It's this very bearing that is sealed in an 'O' ring* chain and cannot be oiled** - grease is used fill this joint when the chain is made and lasts the life of the chain**. Upon the bush that joins the inner sideplates there is a roller, this roller is the part of the chain that primarily contacts the sprockets, allowing the chain to roll on and off of the teeth of the sprocket rather than slide which would quickly cause wear. The roller isn't sealed and must be lubricated, it too has a clearance that allows it to spin on the bush and allows lubricant into it's bearing faces, from either side.
If my explanation has been adequate it should be apparent that if you use an unsealed chain it will need lubricant into the articulations of the joints and the roller. It will need lube inserted between inner and outer plates so as to get between the pin and bush, between the inner plates and the edges of the roller to get under the roller so it will roll effectively on the bush, a little overspray on top of the roller eases the contact of the two, but is the lube that soonest dissapears.
It should also be clear that when using a sealed chain the only bit that you can oil is the roller, and further that this can be done from either side.

Originally Posted by northwind (Post 1759224)

Scottoilers are awesome, simple as that, I'll never own a chain drive bike without one again, unless something more awesome comes along.



How come you made such a fiasco of yours then :mrgreen:

Originally Posted by rictus01 (Post 1759132)

Currently Stu I've got the spray stuff, but once the CB comes back I intend to rob the one off that.

I've got three scottoilers and two are on bikes I don't ride, so not going to buy another.

Cheers Mark.

Originally Posted by northwind (Post 1759248)

Yeah, up until you snag a small child in your snare as you ride past and drag them to their death :mrgreen: