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First charge of a new battery.
The saga of my cr*p battery continues. Damn thing was totally flat on Tuesday morning (so I had to use the car to come to work). Last night after getting home at 9pm I took the battery off, and put in on charge. At silly o'clock (about 1.30am) I put it back on the bike and started it (started fine, but couldn't really leave the bike running in the street at that time).
This morning it fired and died, then refused to start (damp spark plugs I'm guessing considering how much it rained last night), and repeated attempts just drained the battery. So, I've bought a new battery (Yuasa YTX12-BS) which arrived today and I have to put the acid in and charge...and here I get a bit stuck. I've read a few different things about how to do that. I believe I need to pour in the acid, then leave it to stand (some sources say 30 mins, some 4 hours), then charge it up, but again some stuff I've read says put the caps on before charging, others say do not put the caps on as pressure will build up. Can anyone give me any advice on which is the correct method? The info on the battery seems to suggest that a full charge will be approx 10 hours, but if I need to let it stand for a few hours beforehand, I won't have time to charge it up enough to put on the bike before work tomorrow (and I'd rather not leave a battery charging in the house while I'm at work). Worse case scenario is I recharge my old one tonight, swear at the bike in the morning and hope the damn thing starts first time. That means I can do this new battery on Monday when I'm at home all day. I'm confused :confused: Thanks in advance, Jo |
Re: First charge of a new battery
I bought a Yuasa battery a couple years ago and it had a little instruction sheet in it on how to fill and charge etc Jo, i'd say follow that and not what others here might suggest.
IIRC i filled mine, put caps on and ten charged it. But my memory is crap at the best of times so.... |
Re: First charge of a new battery
Don't get too bogged down in the details, it's not a highly sensitive procedure.
Basically add the acid and allow it to stand for maybe an hour or so, just pop the caps in loose at this stage. What charger do you have? A lead-acid battery typically likes to be charged at around one tenth of its amp.hour (Ah) capacity, so as you say a full charge over around 10hrs. That battery will be in the region of 10Ah so a charging current of around 1 Amp is good. An Optimate or similar will be in this region, a simpler (possibly older) type charger might increase the charge rate to 2 or 3 Amps. That's not a great issue but in that case you might consider charging for a couple of hrs then stop and allow it to stand an hour or so, then another couple and so on. Higher charge rate will probably generate a bit more gassing, very light fizzing sound is OK, a lot of fizzing or bubbling is not a good idea and indicates too fast a charge rate and can shorten the battery life. If you can't get the full 10hrs I wouldn't worry too much, but let it stand for the recommended time first and then as much charge time as that allows you. Don't forget to tighten the caps down before fitting to the bike. |
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I'm refraining from opening the packet with the instructions in until I've got it home and checked it's the same size as my current battery ;)
I really should stop reading stuff on the internet...now I've read that the first charge must be a trickle charge, not a full power charge :confused: I just usually connect my charger, select 'motorbike' (rather than car, boat, etc.) and leave it to charge up. And is it meant to be done outside? It's not really an option to leave it outside all night in this weather... |
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Shouldn't need charging if it's new...
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I have an Oxford Maximiser which is kind of similar to an optimate (and only a year old or so).
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But the acid is in a bottle (or rather a number of bottles) so surely it will need charging once I've emptied them into the battery? |
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That should look after the charging for you without any worry of overcharging. \\:D/
(Edit - just follow the instructions with the battery, they will know what's best!) |
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Thanks embee, I'll see if I get time to charge it up tonight :)
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Good evening all.
I always like to let a new sealed type battery stand for at least a couple of hours before sealing it, (more in the colder weather the likes of which we're having now). After sealing the battery it is technically ready for service, but if possible I like to stick them on the Optimate, & bring them up to a fully charged state. I find that they perform better if one does this. Cheers. |
Re: First charge of a new battery.
Thanks for all your input guys.
It took around 3 hours for the fizzing sound to stop after putting the liquid in, so I shoved the caps on then, and stuck it on the charger. It charged up to 14.2v whereas my old one only ever got to 13.7v. This morning I shoved it on the bike, and after 5 mins of trying (which is 4mins 45 secs more than my old battery could manage) it started :D Now I think I need to treat my bike to an oil change :rolleyes: |
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When ever i sell a MF battery i ask the customer if they would like me to prepare it for them, if they say yes then i fill it, put the cap on give them the battery and tell them leave it an hour or so before putting it on the bike. Thanks |
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The acid needs time to react with the plates, and a lot of heat and gas is given off in this time. You have to wait until the battery goes cool before sealing, else you will damage it. |
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Good afternoon all. When one adds the acid to a fresh battery, they do an impression of an Akla seltzer & fizz & fester! If one seals the battery before the fizzing has subsided there's a risk of the internal pressure in the battery once it's in service forcing the sealing strip off, causing acid spillage. Also, as the bikes charging system is designed to keep a well charged battery topped up, as opposed to charging a flat one, a new battery definitely benefits from being bought to a fully charged state using the correct type of charger. Cheers. P.S. You sell MF batteries, has anyone come back & launched one at you yet?:D |
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Umm not me personaly but i know i would get told if i f***ed up and some one else got a battery to the head :smt043 |
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Good afternoon all.
MF (& Sprint) batteries seem to be amongst the most unreliable on the market. Hence my comment about having one lobbed at you.:D And one would think that a Honda dealer would sell genuine Honda batteries. Cheers. |
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Indeed they are, & pretty good value too. Cheers. |
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Also those two aren't alone - there's other rubbish batteries too, I wouldn't buy any of them. |
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Good point Sid. I'd only ever recommend Japanese made Yuasa, Varta, or GS. Luckily for me I have a very good Varta supplier locally. I've supplied hundreds over the years, & had very few problems with them. Cheers. |
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Well, this Yuasa battery has made a world of difference for me - finally a decent battery on my bike means I don't have to gently pat the tank and make a wish before hitting the starter button :)
Jo |
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you still living in 1978? Get a praaaaper battery. Sealed gel, plug it in, bike works. |
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Life is full of variety ;) |
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Indeed Varta are the bollox! £50 for a 220CCA 14aH battery. Ive had it for a year and half and my god its had some hammer (in the falco). I took it to be load tested and it held fine. (had starting issues. I think it was the HT leads on their way out... Replaced them and its great again) Tested at 230CCA, so above spec :D Only gets upto 12.7V though. Don't know how others are closer to 13.5v? |
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I may be misinformed though so if you know better please educate :smt118 |
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primary advantage of gel is that they will work upside down, back to front, on the side, etc. Liquid batteries don't take so well to this. However I agree with Greek that they don't tend to put out the same CCA for the battery size.
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Good morning all. Dynavolt batteries seem to perform pretty well. Mind you, they damn well should do for the price. They seem popular on bikes that are borderline 'under batteried' as standard. Such as 1200 V-Maxes, & some Harleys. In my opinion they're not really worth the extra expense, over the cost of a good standard battery from a reputable maker. Also, they're no more resistant to abuse, be it intentional, (left to go flat) Or un-intentional (regulator going pop). Cheers. |
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I got myself a new battery before taking the bike for a service and simply followed the instructions. Empty the solution into the battery, leave to stand and then charge as necessary. All in all I would say this took about 2 hours. Enough power and time to ride to the dealers. I decided to by myself an optimate 4, which appears to discharge the battery to a point and then recharge and maintain, very happy with it. Incidentally, I have a Datatool 4 fitted to my SV and it definitely drains the battery to some extent if not used for a week or so, but again since the new Optimate 4 has been fitted, not problems at all!! Good Luck |
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Good morning all. I've just had a quick peruse on the net, & it seems that Dynavolt prices have come down considerably. So, it may be that they're making (or having them made) a cheaper range, in order to cash in on their name. Cheers. |
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How long should an initial charge take after adding the acid? Mine seems to be taking a long while (3 hours now and the voltage is only just getting to 14v) so my charger is still shoving in 1.2A. The voltage when I first added the acid was 12.5V. Im worried that this battery is already a ****ter.
So anyone know what it means if the charger cant get the voltage over 14V? |
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Mine took about 4 hours or so (including all the faffy tests the charger does after the initial charge).
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