Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

I fitted some of these to the SVS (2 hours, no need for anything more than spanners and hex keys and not much you can do wrong if you put it all back the same way it came off the old bars) to get over my backache on longer trips.

Now the bars are higher, wider, further back... feels more like riding a rodeo bull, plus a more upright position. So the comfort thing works and is worth the £217 delivered cost.

But how come nobody's mentioned how much they help the steering?! I've been going round bends and roundabouts like a loon. The standard clip ons are pretty poor at letting you change your line mid-corner, but with these there's much more leverage/control and it's a real giggle pushing on the bars and cranking the bike over.

Exhaust pipes, plastic/anodised bits/even the R6 throttle tube conversion are all nice, and add a bit to the bike, but helibars are much better - more comfort, better view of the road and faster round the bends with it :D

Reminded me a lot of the Fazer 1000 I test-rode. Now the SV is almost as much fun in the bends, even if the power and smoothness isn't as great as on the Fazer.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

This was a mod I had just been quoted for just before i came off on a bend, if I get back on Zuky I will do this mod 1st. Where did you get your bars from?

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Shelly's source request seconded! Plus pics would be good!

Ace-T :)

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Yes, I have FJ1200 bars on my SK1S and the control is much better than with the standard bars.

I found there's simply too much weight on the bars to be able to get full control, but with the bars that bit higher and further back you have very little weight on them and it's all control and not support.

Good innit? :smt045

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Yup I had helibars in the past and they were ace. I have the naked top yoke and drag bars now. The helibars were great, but I found, if you crash and bend one, you have to buy a whole new set... Or at least I couldn't find anybody who'd send me a left one.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Pictures please, from many angles!

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Will take and post some pictures soon. Got them from www.bykebitz.co.uk

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

I've ordered some form the states and will put pics on when I have installed them. If i avoid the import tax I save nearly a £100. =D>

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Is it just me that is struggling to see where the price of helibars comes from?

£229 for two metal tubes with bolts in them welded to two more lenghts of tube??

Are they gold plated? Diamond studded? Come with a free ladyfriend?

Carl

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Soujnds tempting, but would it foul the fairings on a curvy?

Matt

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Have you got any pics?

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

They are damn expensive but I get the feeling they will be perfect in the quest to get my SV spot on.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Here they are. Yes, it's hard to see where the £230 odd quid goes, but you could say the same for a bit of bent metal (end can) which someone will happily spend a few £100 on, or plastic/anodised tat which people spend loads on: neither of those improves the comfort or handling of the bike, so I reckon the helibars is some of the best money I've spent on the SV so far, the only one that betters it is the R6 throttle tube conversion which wins mainly because it's only £8 or less to do.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y46.../sP9110002.jpg
View from the front - deceptive - the bars are almost as wide as the mirrors in reality

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y46.../sP9110003.jpg
From behind, you can see the bars stick out more

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y46.../sP9110007.jpg
In this one the old clip on bar is in line with the helibar (though below it) and you can see where the old bar would have to fit on the bike to give the same grip location as the helibar does, about 2 inches further back, plus the helibar is higher, about one inch.

It doesn't seem like a lot but it's enough to make a difference on the road and any more than that and you'd need to replace all the brake, clutch, throttle, etc. cables.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Looking at that last photo, surely an engineering firm could have welded you in a couple of bits of aluminium in the risers for less than £230?

They cut and rewelded a dented alloy wheel for my Audi for £30.

For those using FJ1200 forks, what's the mods required to use them on a curvy?

Cheers,
Carl

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

FJ1200 bars on SV-SK1

http://img14.imgspot.com/u/07/253/12/IMG294625R.JPG

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

This looks great. Have you got a "how to" guide any place? And do they touch the fairings at full lock?

Matt

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Not as such. It's not a direct bolt on job, you need to grind some of the inside edge of the upright away to clear the top yoke (they're forged steel and plenty strong enough). You need to be confident in doing these sort of adaption jobs (bodge?). Not rocket science but needs resources.

http://img14.imgspot.com/u/07/253/12/IMG294225.JPG

I also welded on a small pad and drilled/tapped it for the standard SV master cyl reservoir, and welded on lugs to use the security bolts into the top yoke.

Clearance on full lock is fine to the fairing, I've got them set to give just enough clearance to the tank not to trap thumbs. I swapped them left/right (they're marked L/R), they're slightly offset from the fork centreline and it gives a better angle. They end up "flatter" than the std SV bars, but it's much more like the angle of most other bike bars. It looks almost the same end position as the helibars. Very comfy and much better control.

30mm longer brake hose required, cost me £20 in stainless locally. All other services fit.

http://img14.imgspot.com/u/07/253/12/IMG293720.JPG

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

That's why the helibars are worth it, if you want something you can take out of the box and fit with some spanners, hex keys and screwdrivers within an hour or two.

I did have a slight problem today - I'd changed the position of the bars so they were right back, stopping short of the tank by a few mm. Frankly it was horrid - not much extra comfort and the throttle cables were pulled tight on full right lock, consequently the bike would either rev up or down and try to accelerate or stall (not in a scary dangerous way, more in an irritating way) when the bars were on full right lock, so I set them forwards a bit again and they're fine. Goes to show that the helibars have been designed to give the maximum amount of extra reach possible with the original cables.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

just a warning, i did get them (helibars) shipped from the states, and it ended up costing me £4 more than the UK distributer. UPS get you for the import duty at the point of delivery. So it's not worth it, use http://www.bykebitz.co.uk/

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

That's a shame - I thought about doing the import myself as it looked like it would save a fair bit, but the last time I brought something in at that cost it got whacked with the import. That was UPS too - cheers guys!

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

i've just phoned my nearest bike garage and they've told me it's a 4 week wait for a saturday booking.

The only thing stopping me (as far as i can see) is the huge bolt which holds the top yoke on (i don't have a spanner that big) and also i don't have a torque wrench (am afraid of over/under-tightening things).

How did you get on as far as the above is concerned?

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

So do UPS always sting you? Damn. Wish the Americans were more like the guys in hong kong. They just write gift on everything and you get it with nothing extra to pay.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Heli Bars are something I've been thinking about, but the price has put me off. However SVeeedy's praise and argument (transforms the riding and comfort) has made me think again about fitting some.

I'm only a few miles from Byke Bitz in Yateley so will have to visit them.

Other similar bars are available from Gilles & LSL (the Tour-Match bars) however I have not been able to find out much info on these two yet

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

My standard bars made sense today cos I was "making progress" and wasn't on the bike long. But normally they just hurt.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Fitted my helibars (took a month to get them from the states saved £40). Had to buy 2 different torque wrenches to make sure everything was all tightened properly. They fit very well and make it feel more like my old DTR to ride (a good thing) you sit more upright and can generally throw the thing round more. Very nice. I'm taking my girlfriend out on it now to see what difference it makes with a pillion and will report back.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

finally got them fitted - fantastic, much more upright and comfortable at speed. would recommend to anyone doing any more than a few miles a day.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Hope to be fiting mine tonight, although it is chucking it down at the moment, so will probably put it off till Thursday.

BTW, I got mine from Byke Bitz for less than £200 delivered. They arrived the next day as well!

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Yeah, it's just that nut on the yoke - think it was 32mm. I bought a socket for it for a few quid but it was a nightmare to shift. Stuck a metre of pipe on the end of the socket and it became very easy - turns out that suzuki make the thread out of the poorest quality steel known to man and it had gone rusty, so I sorted that out at the same time.
I don't bother with torque wrenches for the bigger/less vital stuff - just did it by hand, same as I do when adjusting the wheel. They're a good guide but not as accurate or reliable as most people would like to believe.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

The only issue I have is that the right hand bar just clears the tank on full lock and the clutch cable creaks when on left full lock as the end of it has a metal piece fitted. I don't think this will wear the cable prematurely but i'll keep an eye on it.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Keep an eye on the throttle cables - if the bar is too far back then they get pulled tight across the key in the ignition on full right lock, causing the bike to accelerate or try to bog down and stall (in a small irriitating way rather than a bejaysus! dangerous way). I've set mine forward so they just touch the key on full right lock. Yeah the clutch cable creaks but that's it, I think it may have always done that but I didn't notice until I'd messed around with it all - always makes you more aware of bits of the bike you tend to ignore.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

I cant move the throttle bar any further forward now as the master cylinder bolt is stopping things. At full lock there is about 3mm between the starter button and the tank. But its more comfy and u turns are easy.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Gonna get me some of these, now need Lozzo my main man to fit them. Ohhhh think I need to pay him a visit LOL

Edit : Oh I am gonna get ABM comfort kit, £300 but ya get yoke and new bars, too much wine made me read this thread wrong lol hehe

:smt040

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

for a little bit more you could get some gilles variobars with risers.. full adjustment or if you are prepaired to wait you could keep an eye on flebay. just got a set of gilles for £80.. and another £80 for the clamps coz i'm fitting a GSXR front end. had a play with them coz they are 43mm but clamp down to 41mm and they are awsum...

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Just a question, are all you guys on svs or have any of you fitted such bars to a naked sv??

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

What's the point? You've got flat bars already, these appear to be somewhere between handlebars and clipons.

Why not just swap all your hardware for naked SV stuff, that way you can sell the S stuff when you're done and probably make money on it.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

LOL! Same here, thought I was being extremely devious and clever getting the bars shipped but the dreaded import duty took it just about to the same cost as heli's agent in the uk. Think I saved about £4.00 though so not too upset.

Seems to be an anomoly with these things but others have stated needing to change brake lines where I was led to believe and also didn't need to touch the lines at all. Yes, the run down from the master cylinder is marginally tighter than before but not affecting operation. (not planning on doing too many wheelies either so can't see me stretching them any time soon.

Only "additional mod" I really needed to do was remove the banjo stop on the master cylinder in order to turn the brake lever far enough down to be comfortable.

With the maximum down position on the lever, the bottom half of the banjo bolt fouled on the top yoke pinch bolt head. On closer inspection, with the lug removed (light ally so just a junior hacksaw needed) on the master cylinder and just a crack of the banjo bolt (mind your brake fluid on the forks if you go anymore than just allowing a turn of the banjo itself) I was able to get the lever just where I needed it to stop the pins and needles I was getting in my right palm.

I ride with first and middle finger on the lever and the angle was just too severe to allow me to ride like this.

Now, the banjo actually runs down in the exact centre line position of where the lug was so I definetely needed to move it.

All very comfortable now but still surprised that the same model appears to need different techniques / alterations when fitting the exact same item.

Can take photos later if anyone is interested. But certainly didn't need anything other than the sockets and spanners. (oh yes and the junior hacksaw)

Going on hols from 4th to 18 of Sept. so photos may not be possible til after then but I will try.

Deano :)

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Wheelies or not doesn't matter, you can top out the forks going over a little bump or cresting a hill.

Brake lines don't stretch, if they are too short they'll be ripped out of the fittings and you will lose all front braking power instantly. Really really not advisable!!

Lift the bike up with a jack while on the sidestand, or use an assistant, and make SURE the lines aren't being pulled on.

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Thanks for the advice, Pretty confident that there was not any major change in the line once the bars where fitted (had no pulling or yanking of the assemblies to get them back on and being mindful of the words from Heli that this item using all stock lines on the K3, that there should be no issues. Will check again though (no front brake don't really aappeal to me.

For anyone who is interested the following was my work though for fitting the Heli bars to my K3...

Fitting Heli Bars to the SV 650s k3

For anyone interested, here is the run down of how I changed the standard clippons to the Helibars – SV650s K3 (sorry if it’s any different for the curvies can’t imagine that it is but any ways)..


You can attack whichever one you want first but as it looked easiest I opted for the left first so….

First thing is to look under your clutch and front brake lever where you will see the 2 “spade type connectors that deal with your electrics. Unplug the 2 connectors.

Next…

• Remove the bar end (have read many issues regarding this relating to an end screw that will not budge and may possibly need an impact screwdriver. All I can tell you is that mine came straight out with no worries)
• Remove the grip. – Did this using a small’ish, small shafted but long length screwdriver and dipped it into some neat washing up liquid. Poke the screwdriver up between the grip and the bar and work it round gently until you have managed to separate the grip from the bar. Remove and re-apply as much W.U.L as you need but with the W.U.L now round it to, the grip should whiz off like dream.
• Loosen the bolts which hold the clutch lever on. The whole assembly will most likely fall forward with the weight of the lever. Loosen the screws that hold the indicator / light switches. You will need to make sure you undo them enough to allow the small lug which locates into a hole in the top of the bar to allow the whole unit to come off.
• With both these items now undone you can continue to carefully remove them. Just rest them on the front dash out of the way.
• Crack the head nut (32mm socket) and the pinch bolts to both sides of the top yoke. Continue removing the head nut and make sure the pinch bolts are undone finger tight (no need to completely remove them).
• Now Note where the top of the yoke finishes in relation to the top of the forks. Mine was exactly flush. (As per the factory position for the K3 SV. I understand that the curvy should see 3mm of fork above the yoke surface so check this). Pull off the top yoke (may need a tap on the underside with a spanner handle or similar. (Mine just came off with a wiggle on each side as I pulled up.)
• With the top yoke off you can undo the bolt holding the original bar on.
  Note: For anyone who has never taken the top yoke off your bike (like me) don’t try to get to the bolts that look like they keep the ignition block in place!
  Just undoing the 2 pinch bolts which clamp the yoke to the fork is all you need to do! Doh!
• Remove the old bar.
• Identify and take the left Heli-bar and fit it over the top of the fork. Loosely tighten it (you know what I mean) so it doesn’t fall around. With the bar in roughly the right sort of position you should see that the new centre line of the bar is almost running through the centre line of the fork. (The adjuster screw position.) This is where you get most of your comfort due to the straighter back you can now adopt).
• Re-fit the indicator / light switch assembly and make sure you position the locating lug into the hole on the top of the Heli-bar. This position is obviously therefore fixed. With this item back in position you can merely tighten back to completion.
• With the indicator / light switch done, you can position the clutch lever and set to a comfortable position. Do not fully tighten yet though, just enough to fix in position.
  NOTE: Be very careful not to allow the back plate of the clutch lever bracket to scratch the powder coated bar as you swivel and position the lever. (it’s easily done!) Doh! Again!
• Now you can turn the bars to full left lock carefully and then turn the “loose” Heli-bar to the point at which you can obtain full lock without trapping your thumbs. Bear in mind as well that your indicator switch is there so allow enough space for your thumb so you can use if you ever need to at that lock. I positioned mine about 15 – 20mm from the tank.
  Make sure the Heli-Bar is approximately at the correct height with regards to allowing the yoke to go back on and then initially tighten the Heli-bar pinch bolts to “lock” the lever into this initial temporary position.

You can now turn your attention to the right bar.

• Remove Bar end
• Carefully undo and remove the Front brake reservoir and allow to sit where it will.
  NOTE: Do not attempt to do anything other than remove the bolt that fixes the reservoir to the clipon!
• Loosen the throttle body clamp bolts (the removal of the throttle body and grip will occur when you have the original bar off the bike in order to allow enough slack).
• Remove the engine isolator / hazard light switch unit. (Same applies as the indicator side, there is a lug on the top side which locates the unit onto the bar so again just make sure you undo the bolts enough to allow the lug to clear the hole that it fits in on the bar otherwise you’ll be sliding away and nothing will be coming off)!
• Undo and slide the old bar off the fork (you may have to adjust the position of your cables to allow some slack).
• Slide the throttle body off the bar and discard the bar. (Add with other bar from left side and prepare your e-bay sale!)
• Slide the isolator unit off (if you haven’t already removed it).
• Repeat the attachment of the new right bar first sliding the throttle body back on and then re-attaching the isolator / hazard switch (Remember you don’t get a choice where this goes as it will again locate in the hole at the top of the bar). Then roughly position the bar at the correct height in relation to the yoke position.
• You may want to re-attach the reservoir at this point as it does feel a bit vulnerable just wobbling about on the top of the bike.
• Put the bike on full right lock and again, initially tighten at the point where you get full lock with no fouling.
• Now you can replace the top yoke. Put it onto the forks and let it slot down to the position it was in before you started. (as said, the K3, according to the manual should be flush with the top face of the forks.)
  NOTE: Do not be tempted gain a few more mm in height by setting the yoke above the top face of the forks. Mr. Suzuki says no…….)
• Torque the head nut and then tighten the pinch bolts.
  NOTE: As long as you have not moved the bike around too much the yoke should just drop back on without any problems. If you have wheeled the bike about during the process then you may have to bump the front wheel up against a solid surface in order to make sure that you take out any bind (changes of angle) between the forks and the yoke.
• With the yoke back in position, you are ready to do final setups of Heli-Bar angles and lever angles to suit your preferred riding position.
  NOTE: Clutch is just easy – Front brake is where I needed to modify the installation. As mentioned in my previous thread, in order to get my front brake at (what was for me) an essentially comfortable angle, I needed to have the Heli-bars as close to the tank as I dare go and drop the lever as far as it would go before the bottom of the banjo bolt struck the head of the pinch bolt on the right side of the yoke. Looking at it, and where I wanted the lever to be, the only thing stopping it was the stop block on the master cylinder that the banjo sits against. By taking a junior hacksaw and cutting the ally stop on the master cylinder back to just behind the banjo bolt and by then cracking the top banjo nut enough to allow me to turn it, I was able to get the lever down to where I wanted it. The centre line of the banjo bolt is now right through the centreline of where that stop block so it was a considerable distance advantage as you can imagine.
• Once all your levers are suited, then re-attach the front brake reservoir, re-position the throttle body and tighten everything up.
• Re-attach your left grip by first cleaning off all the Washing Up Liquid then applying a liberal amount of your other half’s finest Complete Brick Hold Hair-Spray (you obviously don’t have any yourself……Unless you are of course a girly-wirly yourself in which case…..Oh never mind….) to the Heli-bar and the inside of the grip. Quickly slid it back up the bar and re-attach the bar end.
  NOTE: The bar end may trap the grip in position anyway but with the hairspray routine, I found that one end of the grip still twisted round a bit. Fear Not!!!!! Leave it overnight and you will not be able to move it in the morning for love nor money. (Just refer to the other half on Sunday morning after a Saturday night she wished she’d never had and you’ll know what I mean).
• Re-connect your 2 connectors that you took off right at the start and you’re pretty much done.
• Torque all screws as per Mr. Suzuki and torque your Heli-Bars to 96 ft /lbs (or 8 Newtons I think!) Definitely 96 ft. lbs though.

Have a good old final run round all your bolts and mentally go over everything being tight and finished,
Take her out for a run and see how it feels. You may have to tinker about with the position but this should be minor.

You may also not need to do what I did to the master cylinder stop. As I mentioned, it seems that some people have different bits and pieces tha affect certain parts of the job but this was pretty much mine.

I hope I haven’t left out any glaringly stupid things but from memory, the whole thing took around 2 hours tops.

Hope it helps someone.

Deano

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Got a pic with them on?

Re: Helibars! More than just for comfort...
 

Going away in the next couple of days and have a bit of a tight schedule. Will try though.

Deano