Changing rear pads
 

Have bought some EBC HH pads from Wemoto and am off to halfrauds this morning to get copper grease (as i read on previous threads :-)) cos the rear needs changing.
Problem is (obviously ive never done anything like this before!) my OH said i need to take the rear wheel off to do it, but in the Haynes manual they don't, so what d'ya reckon? :confused:
Assuming the pins come out ok is it easy enough to do with wheel in place or is that just gonna make it more difficult?
Any other gremlins i should be looking out for or should it be straightforward?

I start a maintenance course next month and was hoping they would wait 'til then, but lifes not like that is it? :-)

Thanks guys xx

Re: Changing rear pads
 

Na, don't need to remove the wheel, just unbolt the caliper from the bracket.

Might be worth a quick clean of the caliper body and check (and if needed re-grease*) of the seals, whilst you're there though.


* red rubber grease.
Cheers Mark.

Re: Changing rear pads
 

If your worried about it wait till your oh gets home or ask some one on here in your local if they would pop down and help you out, remember its your brake so you dont want to fluff it up.

Never done them on a curvey but no you dont need to drop the rear wheel.

Re: Changing rear pads
 

Agree with Rictus, leave the back wheel in. Get some brake cleaning spray (Halfrauds) and give the piston a clean. I use an old toothbrush to gently scrub away the dirt & brake dust. Then apply some red rubber grease (halfrauds) to them, You'll need to push the pistons back in to accommodate the new pads, which is why you need to clean & grease them.

I use the old pads as a lever to push the pistons back in.

To remove the old pads in the first place, you need to remove the pins, which I think have a tiny R clip holding them in, and you'll need a pair of pliers to remove these.

When you replace the pins use some copper grease on these, as they are prone to seize & some copper grease on the BACK of the new pads.

Pity you didn't bring them to the ride out, as we could have shown you how to do this. But if we'd come across any problems, then you would have been stuck ;)

Re: Changing rear pads
 

You'll need a 14mm spanner or ratchet + (extention&) Socket IIRC to get the two bolts off that hold the caliper to the bracket. When you're cleaning or levering be gentle with the pistons if they get badly marked or anything they might damage the seals. Remember to transfer over the stainless steel backing plates from the old pads to the new pads. All the above's good advice :) Goodluck

Magiczap - wish someone told me halfrauds sell red rubber grease! Looked everywhere for it endedup getting it off the net.

Re: Changing rear pads
 

When I did mine earlier in the year, the previous owner had bent the pins but still whacked them back in.

It should be a straight forward 10-15 min job.

Wear gloves.

Don't forget to loctite your bolts when you put them back on.

Re: Changing rear pads
 

I bet you a broken spanner the pins are stuck.

Re: Changing rear pads
 

I'll see your broken spanner and raise you a slipping ratchet.

Druid

Re: Changing rear pads
 

Deal me out.No plus gas and the mole grips are missing.

Re: Changing rear pads
 

Out of interest ..... average riding ... how long do the (lets say original) front and rear pads last on average ??