CCT muck up, doh!
 

Hi all :cool:

Been spending this evening with the carbs off the bike doing rejetting and thought while the carbs are off I'll have a stab at checking the front cam chain tensioner, I'd read it could be done without removing it.

With the frame blocking direct screwdriver access to the CCT screw, I ended up trying to use a flatbed bit out of my socket set to wind the plunger back in. Problem is, the spring tension of the plunger is too much and after I move the screw about half a turn/three quarters of a turn it springs back to its original position. After repeated attempts and much swearing I have to give up and refit the carbs back on.

To properly check the CCT you need to retract the plunger all the way and then let go so the plunger springs back to the correct length. With me only being able to only retract the plunger a little before it springs back would I end up doing any damage to the cam chain if I start the bike up?

Also, and this is also dumb, I thought I could try turning the engine over by putting it in gear and moving the back wheel on the paddock stand, rather than turning the crank over with the socket. Get the bike into first and I find the wheel is solid and doesn't move. Get into a higher gear and the wheel moves a bit more before locking up again. Does this mean that my CCT antics have done something to the cam chain to prevent the motor turning freely?

Sorry for the rambling at this time of night...I've got four hours sleep until work time, woo hoo

Cheers for your help all :D

Re: CCT muck up, doh!
 

No you wont have damaged anything. I wouldnt worry too much about your cam chain tensioners, when they go you'll know about it.

WRT turning the engine over- it is much much easier to turn it over in neutral at the crank than by the back wheel, due to gearing and the fact that youre turning against the resistance of the gearbox as well. Do it with a socket, you need to be at the side of the bike anyway to see the timing marks.

Re: CCT muck up, doh!
 

Why was this being done? Was there a camchain noise? If you're concerned about the tensioner operation it should be removed, retracted and locked with a holding tool until it is refitted and then released. You say that you've read it could be done without removal, but as you've discovered access isn't easy, and you're working against the tensioner resetting itself as you try to turn the retractor screw. The tensioner rod has to be held against spring pressure with your finger as the screw is wound - hence removal.

Did you remove the spark-plugs? The engine can be turned over with the back wheel - but unless the plugs are removed it will be very, very difficult.

Re: CCT muck up, doh!
 

Cheers for your replies all, its a relief no damage was done!

Yeah it was a dumb idea of me to check the tensioner...I just thought that while the carbs were off a check would be a good idea to make sure it hadn't seized and was still working ok. Turned out to not be a good idea ha ha!

I was trying to turn the back wheel as I'd read that the tensioner resets with a pinging sound if you turn it as it goes to TDC at the crank?

Now I've done this half-check do I need to go the whole hog and remove it to reset it properly?

Cheers again! :D

Re: CCT muck up, doh!
 

Not unless you have removed or even loosened the mounting bolts - if you have the tensioner will have extended and it will be difficult, (at best - which you've discovered), to retract it whilst it's fitted. Also are you sure you haven't extended the tensioner by turning the retracting screw the wrong way? You'd have to lean on it to make it extend past where the spring will extend it to, but I suppose there is the slimmest possibility that if you were to do so it could over extend.
Assuming you haven't and all you've done is remove the end plug, just make sure the seal is OK and refit it.

Re: CCT muck up, doh!
 

Good stuff, I'd just removed the end bolt and tried to turn the screw clockwise so no harm done.

Thanks loads again Sid Squid!:salut: