Calipers rebuilt, still dragging a bit.
 

So just stripped out the front calipers on my mrs bike as the front brakes where pretty much non existent.

What I found was no dust seals at all, seized in pistons and a right mess. So I stripped it all out as best I could and rebuilt just using the old fluid seals for now, bled the brakes and gave it a test but it seems like the pistons are still a bit sticky on the front end causing the pads to catch on the disc a tad.

Will this ease with time? Ive looked at new seal kits @£20 each and then the pins @£10 each, tbh ive seen complete caliper sets cheaper on auction sites so im wondering whether to scrap the calipers and go with a good condition set of used ones?

What would u do?

Re: Which route would u go down?
 

Can you guarantee that second hand ones will not not have similar issues?

It comes down to how much can be fixed from your old set, if they can be reconditioned and made to feel nice again then go ahead, you may even enjoy doing it. My concern would be buying another set and finding that you then have to do the same job, doubling the cost. I only replace when it is clear that the parts are knackered beyond repair.

Re: Which route would u go down?
 

This is it, no guarantees. I have found this little lot and I think thats the way to go:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1609850931...84.m1423.l2649

&

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1907094049...84.m1423.l2649

the pistons themselves have a few marks on them, mostly from me being a bit heavy handed but there sides are smooth so I think its either down to the old seals or the pin as to why the pads are retracting so well, I think il do the above as I quite enjoyed stripping em out and sorting them.

What does everyone use for cleaning out the inner bits where the seals sit as I could get a fine screw driver in there to get the ****e out but its not really that great at polishing them up!

Re: Which route would u go down?
 

What about re-conditioned exchange callipers, good as new then.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-SV6...item2326c1d9d5

Re: Which route would u go down?
 

I've got a set of calipers that need about 30 minutes work to finish them.
I'll be cheaper than £120 notes

For the seal grooves use a dremmel and a wire brush attachment, then strip the full caliper and wash them. Last set looked like there was a full brake pad in the grooves

Re: Which route would u go down?
 

I agree with Jayneflakes. Stripped mine bare and got my bits off Wemoto as recommended by most orgers. Painted with caliper paint and as good as new.
Mines a 1999 curvy so were as old as you can get. pics give you an idea of how they started and finished.

Re: Which route would u go down?
 

Thanks guys, I've decided that tomorrow I'm gonna get a dremel, strip them back off the bike and polish them up ready for when the new seals and pins turn up, may even give them a fresh lick of caliper paint too.

Re: Calipers rebuilt, still dragging a bit.
 

Make sure you clean and lube (using red rubber grease) the sliding pins as well.

If the pistons move but the sliders are stuck, the brakes will still feel rubbish.

Jambo

Re: Calipers rebuilt, still dragging a bit.
 

I thought copper slip was best to use on the pins?

Re: Calipers rebuilt, still dragging a bit.
 

The issue is the rubber boots that surround both pins. Wherever the grease will come in contact with rubber, a rubber grease should be used.

If you use a copper / LM grease the rubber can absorb is, swelling up in the process. This can mean it wedges the pins, sticking the brakes on.

The pad-retaining pins do not touch a rubber boot, so you can use a little copper slip on them without any concern :)

Jambo