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-   -   Tips for getting the midsection off (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=59867)

jon 06-05-05 05:13 PM

Tips for getting the midsection off
 
Right, tomorrow i'm hoping to tackle a new can. Ben (21quest) has kindly provided me with a midsection so i don't have to cut mine, but i do have to get the can off.

I've just soaked the clamps in wd40 but i've a feeling the bottom one is going to be a right ba***rd to get off... and i'm not even sure how to get to the rear collector clamp as it's hidden behind the suspension.

Any tips would be appreciated or anyone knowing of a guide, speak up

thanks

northwind 06-05-05 08:27 PM

Don;t try and remove the header from the cylinder; instead break the pipe at the joint about 3 inches along. You'd probably worked that out :) It's just a question of removing the side panels and using a good long extension on a ratchet to undo the clamp, really. Shouldn't need to remove anything else, at least if it's anything like mine.

jon 06-05-05 08:50 PM

Oooh, i get to remove the sinde panels, exciting! (Sorry, i just had fun taking off the tax disc holder and left rear footpeg... i'm easily amused with the SV)

northwind 06-05-05 08:56 PM

You're weird :)

jon 06-05-05 10:33 PM

Me? Never!

I tell you what, i hope the rear clamp is easier to undo than the one underneath, it still won't budge for toffee.

carelesschucca 06-05-05 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by northwind
You're weird :)

Pot Calling Kettle, Pot calling Kettle... :wink:

Carsick 07-05-05 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jon
Me? Never!

I tell you what, i hope the rear clamp is easier to undo than the one underneath, it still won't budge for toffee.

Try soaking it in a decent penetrating oil; wd40 really isn't up to the job.

Sid Squid 07-05-05 09:58 AM

It won't be that tough to do, the sleeve joins have graphite gasket sleeves in them and don't corrode to the pipe that bad as there is very little metal to metal contact, if the clamps are rusty and hard to undo just bin them and fit some stainless ones, most bike shops will have them and they're about £3 each.

The bit that can be awkward is the front clamp at the cylinder head, often badly corroded, if the nuts don't move easily and immediately, give serious consideration to cutting them off, you really do not want to risk snapping a stud trying to undo them, and it's frighteningly easily done. Once the nuts are off, it's not unknown to find that the clamp is corroded to the studs, this can normally be tapped - gingerly - around and moved eventually, again if it doesn't move fairly soon, stop, I've had to cut three of these off, but it's better than drilling broken studs/having to remove the head so the engineering shop can work on it etc.

Bottom line: GO EASY.

northwind 07-05-05 06:00 PM

Big plus one for that, I broke off an exhaust stud on the orrible Yam and it was an absolute nightmare.

Viney 08-05-05 01:53 AM

You dont have to undo the bolt on the rear cylinder clamp, it will wiggle off! Udo the 2 bolts on the fornt cylinder undo the can, dont forget the bolt on the stand side under the engine! and wiggle away. It'll come off.

Done it more times than i care to forget!


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