Ginge
The bottom line is that you'll need to remove the forks from their yolks. This in turn will mean that you also need to remove the front wheel, and mudguard. Again, this means you'll need some method of raising the front end of the bike, which is easier said than done if you don't have the right tools. Investing in a pivot type paddock stand such as NWS or Abba is the best recommendation.
If you work out what oil you're putting in, the air gap, and preload, you won't really need preload caps - however I appreciate that they are a useful as well as luxurious item when it comes to the SV.
The standard forks come with 10w oil as standard, though I think it's acknowledged that it's a pretty watery version. However, it's probably safe to say, that after 5 or 6 years, your forks are probably working something close to 5w ;)
Some folks replace with 10w again, but most go with 15w. This could easily be too heavy, and depends on the kind of riding you do. I'm sure it's possibly to buy or make a 12.5w, but I have no idea how or where.
Most folks go for Ohlins springs, which are as much of a direct replacement as you'll find. I ended up with Maxton springs, which are quite different - much shorter, and come with a very large spacer. The end effect is an extra 10mm of preload beyond stock. This is in addition to the harder spring, and thicker oil.
The result for me was a much harder ride - lovely for tidy country roads, hell on some of London's less looked after streets, or annihilated industrial estates.
Changing the springs and oil is not complicated, but it does require a methodical and careful approach, and all the correct tools present and to hand. Many people fall at the first hurdle, with the 12mm hex bolt to undo the front spindle ;)
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