Clutch fix problem
 

Hi guys,

I have a technical question about the SV650 (1999-2002) clutch.

I have replaced the clutch push rod that runs from the clutch release screw assembly into the centre of the clutch, but the push rod doesn't seem to move in & out when I push it/use the lever, so the bike is always in gear (clutch not dis-engaging). The lever springs back and the spring assembly seems OK. I think that the problem lies with the parts numbered 14 & 15 on the microfiche diagram (see link below). I believe I have replaced part 15, as I think part 14 lived inside the clutch housing and movement of the clutch release screw assembly pushes in the push rod (15), which in turn pushes the internal rod (14), thus pushing the pressure plate back and taking the pressure off the clutch plates (thus dis-engaging them from each other). This is my current understanding of how I think it works, it may be very wrong!!

I have tried to push the push rod (15) in using a pair of pliers, but it doesn't move. I expected it to disengage the clutch, even a bit! Does the clutch release screw assembly really apply considerably more force to the rod than all my strength using pliers??

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_03...0&parent=11810


Cheers,

Phil

Yes, i tried myself once, its very hard to impossable to push the rod in. Have you checked that when the pull the lever back the rod is actualy being pushed in? Mabey the adjustment is completley off using the little screw on the clutch spring mechanisim.

Re: Clutch fix problem
 

Yes! It is 'kin 'ard to push it manually.

I spent an entire morning thinking I had f**ked something up, as the bike kept stalling and the clutch seemed to drag on the paddock stand. Then I remembered to put the side stand up :oops: , and when the rear wheel was on the ground the clutch worked ok. There is very little movement of that rod. Would suggest you check the end adjustment as TSM posted.

I had a very similar issue recently during my first track day.

--'02 SV650S, no gearing/sprocket mods

I was pushing it hard all day (hard for me anyway). I started to notice something wrong with about 3 laps to go, as I was having trouble shifting. I thought it was me getting tired/not timing my shifts/blips correctly. Approaching the 3rd last corner of the last lap of the last session of the day, I tried to downshift with the end result of it stalling into the corner. I tried to change it into neutral then back into 2nd to restart it. No go. Once in neutral, it wouldnt change back out so I had to roll it into the grass.

Turns out the adjuster nuts on the engine end of the clutch cable were rattling lose, which seems to have caused the cltuch to be always engaged for who knows how long. The theory is that this essentially clutchless shifting had heated up the clutch assembly so much (expanding all the innards) that it was simply refusing to work -- even after the adjuster nuts were sorted.

By the time I had trailered it home, it was running fine. After speaking with a local mechanic, he said that I had the clutch adjusted wrong to start with. It was set such that the clutch would engage quite soon after you begin letting the lever out -- causing a large amount of slack when the lever is opened all the way. He says that the general rule of thumb is to only allow enough slack in the level such that you can just fit a penny between the back of the lever and the lever stop.

Now the only problem is, I have to relearn my shifting -- especially blipping as the clutch doesn't engage until the lever is almost all the way out.

I'm no expert, so any comments? (and sorry for the long story) I'm considering changing out the clutch pack anyway, as I can get a good Kevlar coated one for < US$100.

oh yeah, here's a pic of my first track day if anyone's interested (the corner has a late apex with a big patch of dirt which is why im so far out):
http://www.hart-photography.com/2006...ges/p0034.html[/url]

Is the Clutch Screw Assembly working? On my curvy it appeared OK until I took a closer look. All but 3 off the ball bearings had disappeared. The replacement cost £30 and worked wonders.

I had that too, with the lifter. But tbh I don't think it's your problem- even with no bearings at all it should still work, just very badly.

Err, how:?: When i pulled it apart from what i understood the bearings is what allows the lifter to push the rod in and rise up the ramps. Without these bearings the lifter would rotate but never lift. I might be wrong but this is what i vaguely remember from when i last pulled one apart.

You're probably right, now I think of it. There's not a guide piece for the ramps, is there, just the bearings in teh ramps. Probably why they fail so easily, for that matter. It does still work with only 2 balls in it though. Just feels like you're breaking something every time you use it.

Yep I would almost guarantee that part 18 is incorrectly adjusted. Note: You need to get the angle of the leaver correct before adjusting 18.