Quote:
Originally Posted by WRCSixtyThree
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinestarhero
Try blipping the throttle to encourage it to warm up aswell.
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An engine-builder and biker mate of mine (used to build up the Audi Group B Quattro engines back in the 80s) would slap you round the face with a conrod for suggesting that.
A short cut to a short life he'd say. Always recommended to start engine on choke, let revs settle, and ride/drive away gently straight away, gradually reducing choke as engine warms, avoiding high revs and high cylinder pressures (produced when maximum torque is generated) until thoroughly warm.
Don't know if it's true, but I trust him, and so did Hannu Mikola and Stig Blomqvist.
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Absolutely 100% correctamundo! :lol:
Blipping the throttle is the best way to get plug fouling; that was the essence of a plug-foul test we developed to check for likely problems we might encounter with repeated start/stop during production/delivery at a certain midlands luxury car maker. :wink:
When cold a carb engine should need choke, or put it this way it will need extra air just to be able to produce some more torque required to run it when cold, and it needs extra fuel because less evaporates in the intake port to provide combustible mixture than when it's hot (fuel wets the walls and condenses in the chamber so isn't available for burning during the first few cycles).
If your carb engine will start at, say, zero-C without choke then it's almost certainly running too rich anyway.
Best way to warm it up is ride it gently for a few minutes if at all possible. If you can't do this for some reason, just hold the throttle slightly open and put the choke off as soon as it'll run happily, and hold the throttle steady.
...and yes, iridium plugs do definitely assist cold starting (partly due to increasing the lean limit for ignitability of the mixture, offsetting some of the above wetting issues etc, also they have a reduced voltage requirement for the spark so give the rest of the ignition system an easier life).
...and Sid's comments on batteries are spot on too. A lot of starting or stalling-after-start problems on cars (typically older generation injected ones at that) are solved by fitting a new battery, it's often to do with voltage compensation during afterstart when the battery is trying to recover from being hit with a cold start. Fuelling is adjusted to allow for the reduced voltage working the injectors which slows the opening and reduces fuel flow for a given pulse-width, but it doesn't always cope with a poor battery condition and slow voltage recovery etc.
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