Pain in the A$$!!!!!! when i got my 2000 curvy it had no working bulbs in, i bought LED replacements (theyre AWESOME!) to change mine i had to literally take the whole front apart (both side fairings and nose cone, headlights, and then clocks)
This is the place i got my bulbs, Cheaper than my local dealers per bulb -
https://www.crazyleds.co.uk/
REALLY quick postage and well packed too!