Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeker
It might be worthwhile buying a left handed (reverse thread) drill bit. Centre punch the exposed part of the bolt as accurately as you can and then drill into it, the action of drilling will probably unscrew the bolt for you.
I'd be wary about using a screw extractor - they are hardened and if they snap they are a major headache to remove.
Mole/vice grips are a good idea if you have sufficient thread exposed.
Sometimes when screwing a steel bolt into aluminium you get an effect called "galling" - basically the two different materials weld themselves together which may be what happened here - normally you would feel the thread tightening up before it happens, lubricating the threads before assembly will reduce the likelihood of it occurring.
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Excellent advice.I have a couple of,"Left Hand" drill bits just for jobs like this.
Also you can make a super release fluid out of a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF or Acetone and Brake fluid but beware that Brake fluid can strip paint.
Also I have a cheap Butane Torch like this,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Welding-S...4AAOSwnk9Z4Rtz
These are great for jobs like this as they are ultra directional and you can apply the heat just where it's needed for getting bolts out.
PS
Tip for the future.Fit an aftermarket horn to the left front of the bike and remove the stock weedy horn and it's bracket.Then you can get to the front plug much easier and I use a bit of cardboard with some double sided tape to protect my hands and the rad fins(Don't forget to take it off when done).
Orange cable is just disc lock reminder.I use the disc lock on the rear now.
