Cam chain tensioner - no slot??

[stevieo]

Well I wasn't worried about this, now I am ! -

Im thinking as long as I re-check the clearances after its all back together, put the cams back on in the right position and dont refit the tensioners extended then all should be good. Can you point me to any other problems that may arise?

Thanks Steve

[glang]

Have a good read of the manual beforehand and you'll be fine. Its just a case of marking and recording everything as it comes apart, not letting the chain go loose back down in the barrels, not dropping anything in the engine, not mixing bits up on reassembly and not overtightening bolts into soft alloy...

[glang]

oh and if your lucky and very careful (go round them with a feeler gauge or something before lifting off) you might be able to reuse the cam cover rubber gaskets which I think are quite expensive to replace...

[admin]

I'm paranoid so I'd turn the engine over by hand when you're finished just to ensure there's no valve piston interference. In case of a cam timing error.

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[glang]

Originally Posted by admin

I'm paranoid so I'd turn the engine over by hand when you're finished just to ensure there's no valve piston interference. In case of a cam timing error.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

Yes good point and it reminded me of a Suzuki vee twin I did recently (not SV) where I got in a right pickle. I think youre supposed to do one cylinder at a time and I would recommend this as I tried to dismantle both at the same time to give more choice for swopping shims around.
However doing this means you have to rotate the crank with one cam set removed plus then to get back to the correct position for the first you have to rotate a long way and its easy to get confused whether youre on the firing or exhaust stroke. The crank mark lines up the same for both and I hadnt marked the chain so with no cams its very difficult to know when the electronics will produce the spark!
More by luck I got it right and all was well but I lost some sleep as it wasnt my bike....

[stevieo]

Thanks for all the advice, finally got round to it and all good, all clearances are pretty much in the center of spec now. Cranked by hand first, then a short burst with no plugs in, then started first time and runs fine.
I ended up taking all 4 cams out and doing the timing from scratch using the manual, so cams in correct position on front on F mark, then rotate 360 and do the rear also on F mark. Next check is at 95K!

[admin]

Originally Posted by stevieo

Thanks for all the advice, finally got round to it and all good, all clearances are pretty much in the center of spec now. Cranked by hand first, then a short burst with no plugs in, then started first time and runs fine.
I ended up taking all 4 cams out and doing the timing from scratch using the manual, so cams in correct position on front on F mark, then rotate 360 and do the rear also on F mark. Next check is at 95K!

Well done. Not a job for the faint hearted.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

[glang]

Originally Posted by stevieo

Thanks for all the advice, finally got round to it and all good, all clearances are pretty much in the center of spec now. Cranked by hand first, then a short burst with no plugs in, then started first time and runs fine.
I ended up taking all 4 cams out and doing the timing from scratch using the manual, so cams in correct position on front on F mark, then rotate 360 and do the rear also on F mark. Next check is at 95K!

If you took all 4 cams out at the same time how did you know the crank was in the right position when putting them back in? As I say the crank mark comes round twice for every revolution of the cam but only one of those crank positions is the correct one for the cam F mark....