Curvy running funny :(

[Dave20046]

Hi Guys,
I've just bought my first sv650(x) it's a 1999 curvy and has been garaged for the past couple of years. Anyhow I've banged in some new super unleaded and it fires up first time but there's a few bugbears I'm having with it - so I'd appreciate it if anyone could advice whether I'm being a girl, it's just because there's still some old fuel in the system or it's a problem. The most noticeable thing about it is if you start it up with a little bit of throttle on there will be an almighty bang and it's backfired, it may also do this occaionally when sharply revved (i understand that could be normal - just unburnt fuel getting to the zorst) but it does do this quite a bit it also seems to be 'hunting' when on tickover its goes from 1k to 1.5k to 1k to 1.5 k etc. ocaasionally jumping to 2k and then possibly most annoyingly it stalls somewhat randomly when on tick over(seemingly with no warning or revs dying).
Also my mates reckons It's nothing but the bike seems to get extremely hot, even if it's just been left on tickover/revved a bit on the drive for 20 or 30 minutes. Sitting on it you can really feel the heat from the engine/radiator and the fan also kicks in (and will continue to stay on for a bit when off).
Any advice, as usual, I'd be really grateful for.
Cheers guys

[fizzwheel]

The bad running might be that is has gunk in the carbs. Especially if its been sat for ages not being used. Unleaded goes off and you get left with a gummie sticky residue in the carbs.

The other cause of the bad idle might be your choke plungers are stuck, this is quite common as the plungers corrode and get stuck in the carb bodies if they dont get used much.

I'd be looking to if you are able take your carbs off and give them a good going over and a clean up.

Originally Posted by Dave20046

even if it's just been left on tickover/revved
a bit on the drive for 20 or 30 minutes.

Am I reading this right, you leave your bike idling on the drive for 20 or 30 minutes

Theres no fan like there is in a car to blow air through the rad, the bike relies on it being moving to get air to flow through the rad and cool the bike so no wander its getting hot. You really dont want to be doing that.

Advice given to me by my Dad was, "if your not going to ride it, dont start it"

clean your carbs-the choke plungers may be gunged up and see how it runs-as for the temp-drain cooling system, flush and refill-see how it goes.
nice looking bike in the best colour
husky

[Dave20046]

Cheers fizzwheel I think you may be right - looks like I'll take be taking the carb off then. I'm loathed to doing it because I once took a carb off a cbr and it didn't run right for months..in the end turned out to be an airleak! I've done one since though which went a bit more successfully ...
The choke lever moves fine, if the choke plunger was seized would the lever seize a bit too? If not I'll have a gander when I clean out the carb.

And I've left it on tickover for about 20 mins a couple of times, I was adjusting the clutch and in general messing around with it. I won't worry about the overheating then (until I've tested it on the roads), was just worried because there's no temp gauge so you have no idea what damage your doing. The radiator does have a leak (which has been mended in the past) but I'm going to try and fix it again.

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by husky03

clean your carbs-the choke plungers may be gunged up and see how it runs-as for the temp-drain cooling system, flush and refill-see how it goes.
nice looking bike in the best colour
husky

Cheers husky, I do love the bike but another thing that's annoying me about it is it's a bit of a boring naked at the moment - I want to do something a bit different with it to make it a little meaner looking...can't think what though.
I'll have a look at the carb(s?) (is there more than one on an sv?) have a clean out and inspect choke plungers. Do you have any advice on draining,flushing and refilling the cooling system you could give me? Or any linkys?
Dave

[fizzwheel]

SV has two carbs, one for each cylinder.

[Dave20046]

makes sense

[embee]

Definitely go with the above recommendations, though I'd suggest limiting the intrusion into the carbs to removing floatbowls and cleaning, and taking the choke plungers out similarly.

The problem with the chokes is as often as not that they don't close off fully. The lever still moves and feels OK, but the plungers don't go back fully when it's put to off due to gunge/rust/white furry deposits.

You may find the screws are reluctant to come out, depending on what's been done in the past. Make sure you use the correct driver, it's phillips/crosshead and not pozidrive. Tap the end of the driver gently before trying to undo them, and if it looks like the driver is beginning to mangle the screw heads then stop and carefully peen the heads back into shape with a small hammer. Ideally use a socket set driver rather than a normal screwdriver, you'll get much better control.

My bike had been stood for a while when I got it and made some massive bangs during the first month or so when I started it up. (not every time it was fairly occasional). It stopped after i'd ridden the bike a few hundred miles. It might sort itself out..
mary

You maybe able to stuff your radiator leak with some of that epoxy putty as a cheap fix - depends on the location. Mine was leaking around the thermostat thingy as the thread was rubbish. Worked great.