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#1 |
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Thought I'd start stripping the spare engine down to salvage the crank for the rebuild. However things have not gone entirely to plan...
The basics of it is the Alternator Rotor Bolt that you use to turn the engine has rounded. This wasn't just down to me as from the start it didn't feel right. But in concentrating on this I took my eye off the ball and the rear cylinder cam chain has wrapped and jammed itself around its drive gear behind the Primary Drive Gear. So this now gives me a bit of a problem as I can't take the rotor bolt off or use it to hold the crank in position to remove the primary drive gear. So your suggestions please. As a note I do not care what components I damage in order to do this all I need from the engine is the crank. |
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#2 |
Noisy Git
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Ah, so the only bit you need is the part which might get damaged
![]() Move the motor about gently with primary drive gear retaining bolt until you can get camchain out of the way. You might get lucky, try carve a slot into the bolt and get an impact screwdriver to it, otherwise, chop the head off, (releasing the tension on it) and go down the middle of it with a left handed drillbit. Unless you get lucky, and when you chop the head off there is enough to get hold of with a stud extractor. If there is enough left, use this type of stud extractor http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Stud-Ex...4Pa38Ta38Sa350 Obviously you need this bolt out at some point. What I wonder is, if you have a complete bottom end there, why not just use it as-is? Swapping crank into cases is more than just dropping in, you will need to check main bearing sizes etc.
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#3 |
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I think I'll go for the impact driver then. Might chop the cam chain off to save fafing around while I have the Dremel out.
As for the question of why am I stripping this engine down, well I don't like to do things the simple way. Although the more detailed answer is I had this engine in my old SV many years ago but swapped it out as I wasn't happy with it. Trouble is I can't remember the exact problem with it and it has be standing for some 4+ years. So the plan is to take this crank and the one from the broken engine with me when I go to get the cylinders bored for the pistons and ask if the broken one can be fixed or if the spare is usable. Then I'll address the bearings issue as and when. |
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#4 |
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Well first I removed the damaged tensioner blade, damaged due to the chain wrapping up. This gave me the space to untangle the chain. I then realized that I was being silly about holding the engine and stuck a spanner in the alternator as if I were removing it and set about taking the primary drive gear off.
After that I thought I'd have another go at the alternator bolt before firing up the Dremel and luckily I somehow managed to get the purchase on its mangled head and off it popped. The only problem now is the alternator rotor as I can't get it off. Its on much tighter than the other one. I need another pair of hands preferably connected to a body to counter balance the engine as I try and turn the rotor off... |
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#5 |
Noisy Git
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Have you got puller?
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#6 |
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No, I'm using the M20 bolt method. Might have a look if Halfords have an Impact Socket for it...
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#7 |
Noisy Git
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Do it up as tight as you dare and leave it there.
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#8 |
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Then hit it.
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