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#1 |
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Having a bit of bother with the forks on my VFR, really struggling with the damper rod allen bolts.
I've tried a couple of different approaches, loading the forks and also pulling out the damper piston to try and generate enough friction to be able to turn the bolt without simply turning the damper/spring. * Managed to get one of the bolts out and it seems to have some sort of thread lock on it (why the hell the former owner did that is beyond me when there's a copper washer there, the bolts are hard enough to get out anyway!), but the other one is having none of it and it doesn't seem to matter how much load is on it. What I could possibly do with is something to put between the spring and damper rod which increases the friction between the two, although whether this would actually work I don't know as no doubt fork oil will get in between the surfaces and scupper my efforts. In order to get maximum load on the springs I'm also thinking some sort of "jig" with a ratchet strap to compress a spacer onto the fork spring, but wondered if anyone had any handy hints? Oh, and I don't have a compressor so no air tools. Jase * The model of the bike is 750FS, which has a damper rod with a sliding piston, so unfortunately the option of a long arm with an easy out or similar shoved down the damper rod to hold it is a non-starter. |
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#3 | |
No, I don't lend tools.
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You need to buy/borrow/make/steal* a damper rod holding tool - this again is normal. Like the ones on this page: Click me, you'll need to find which is the right one for your bike. *A little joke. Don't steal things - this is bad form and not gentlemanly behaviour.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" Last edited by Sid Squid; 30-05-10 at 01:01 PM. Reason: Spelling! |
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#4 |
Noisy Git
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That is not damper rod that is cartridge.
Use rattle gun, easiest way. You can get some tool for top of cartridge but they can be PITA. Sometimes you can do castellation on end of a 22mm pipe to fit. I have some GSXR SRAD cartridges here if you want to come have a look to make a tool to fit. They are also showa of slightly later era so good chance they are similar. Edit: no point, you can compare to other side. I do not see the point of threadlock there, I do not see there is likelihood of them coming undone.
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Currently Ex Biker
Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat Last edited by yorkie_chris; 30-05-10 at 01:00 PM. |
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#5 | |
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I must be fortunate then as I've never come across them being thread locked before, until this set! Never had any problems without thread locking my own stuff before either, so won't be locking them when I put the forks back together, just torque-ing them up. |
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#6 |
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Broom handle has been known to work, cut it to size instead of the spring and tighten it up, then give the allen a good clout with an impact driver or a 'rattle gun'
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#7 | |
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May have to invest, I'm sure I'll get the use out of it anyway.
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Glad I'm not the only one! I don't tend to thread lock much at all, especially if I'm likely to want to get it undone again. So long as stuff's well nipped, it aint going to fall appart. |
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#8 |
Noisy Git
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Look at diagram. Rebound rod is in the way of using that method.
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat |
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#9 |
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#10 |
Noisy Git
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Those electric ones are actually pretty good even compared to air.
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Currently Ex Biker
Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat |
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