Clutch cable adjustmentioned help?!?

Hi everyone my clutch cable is all the way out on the lever end so I went down to try and adjust it at the clutch end. I have found that I believe and I hope you all can inform me otherwise is that the clutch end adjustment is all the way as well? If that is the case should I get a new clutch perhaps? Attached is a photograph.

[Tamsen Cooper]

Hi, Yeah that looks adjusted to the very longest length. I recently did my clutch cable too, I got it from robinsons foundry for about £10. I am uploading the video of the cable replacement now to youtube, I will post the link when it is done if it helps.

[Red ones]

I hope you are doing the adjustment correctly.
Before you adjust the cable you should be playing with either gubbins at the bottom end.
Search this forum for clutch adjustment, there is a really good post on how to do it correctly which is all about the clutch lifter mech ( see the part arrowed in the photo ).

I'd take a guess the lifter is shot ( it's made of cheese ). How many miles on the clock?

[Tamsen Cooper]

Its uploaded, I am no expert, this is just how I did it using the Haynes Manual and taking a lot of advice.

[millemille]

At the moment your clutch actuator and cable are adjusted incorrectly, and that's why your cable has run out of adjustment at the clutch end.

Undo the lock nut on the actuator - highlighted by the red arrow in the pic above - and use a flat head screwdriver to back off the threaded rod in the middle of the nut.

Back off the cable adjuster on the clutch lever to make the cable as slack as possible.

Use a 12mm spanner on the top nut and 10mm spanner on the cable adjuster and slacken the adjuster at the engine end of the cable so that the angle between the arm and the actuator body is about 80 degrees.

Nip up the 12mm nuts.

Use the flat head screwdriver to wind the threaded rod in until it goes solid, and then back it off quarter a turn and lock up the lock nut.

Take any slack out of the cable with the adjuster at the lever end, until you've got about 10mm of free play in the lever when measured at the ball end of the lever.

[ophic]

This advice might buy you a week.

I bet you a pound to a penny it's a worn "clutch release screw", aka lifter.

Part: 23200-11D00

About £50 from http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/

Hi it's got 36k on the clock. I set up the rod correctly and have no issues with clutch dragging or changing gear? Why would I need to replace anything when everything is working.

[ophic]

Originally Posted by tojo82

Hi it's got 36k on the clock. I set up the rod correctly and have no issues with clutch dragging or changing gear? Why would I need to replace anything when everything is working.

Had to replace mine at a similar mileage. It's fine for a while but then wears more and you've run out of adjustment. You'll start finding it difficult to find neutral soon.

I can see I need to change just the cable but everything else seems fine so I'll just get one of them. Thanks

[millemille]

Originally Posted by tojo82

Hi it's got 36k on the clock. I set up the rod correctly and have no issues with clutch dragging or changing gear? Why would I need to replace anything when everything is working.

With respect my friend, if that picture is of your bike as it currently is then you haven't set the clutch actuator up correctly.

The actuator arm is pulled up way too much - this evident by the angle between the cable and the arm, by how much the actuator adjuster is wound out and by how much you've wound the barrel adjuster out.

It's ridiculous to suggest that a flat wound multi strand steel cable - that is under very, very little load - has streteched to the extent that you've run out of length adjustment.

I'd suggest either getting a manual or giving the bike to someone who knows what they're doing and set the actuator up correctly - as per my guide above - and then see what the score is.