Totally baffled - Chain & Sprockets

OH - AND QUITE LITERALLY - MY GOD!!!!
I am currently considering attempting to change my chain and sprockets myself on my 2000 curvy 650s, and have read the appropriate sections of my Haynes manual, then I thought I would look in the forum for further advice and tips, and almost sort of wish I hadn't. Now I'm totally confused !!!!

OEM endless chains - aftermarket ended chains - 108 links - 110 links - X-ring - O-ring - heavy duty - split links - spring links - D.I.D. - Tsukabi - smaller front sprockets - larger rear sprockets - alloy - steel - lock washers - removal of swingarm - shraider valves - hammers - grinders - rivetting tools - g-clamps................... seriously, oh my god !!!

I really need help here, you guys obviously have a lot of experience in doing this kind of thing, and probably think I'm a total muppet, but really, after reading the threads, my head really hurts.

As far as I'm aware the standard set up for an "s" is a 15 tooth front sprocket, a 44 tooth rear sprocket and 525 pitch chain with 108 links. Is this correct?

More questions.
1. If I exchange for OEM, how do I fit an endless chain?
2. If I decide on a larger rear sprocket (say 2 extra teeth) do I need to compensate with a longer chain?
3. Is there a particular advantage of X or O ring?
4. Is Tsukabi the dogs danglies (as suggested in a few posts) or will any recognised chain manufacturer be similarly adequate?
5. How do alloy sprockets compare to steel sprockets?
6. Which ancillary parts do I need to get when exchanging? (lock washers, rivets etc...)
7. Does this stuff come with the kits or do you buy 'em separately?
8. Which supplier would you recommend?

Any information that anyone could add would be gratefully received. Please help me to clear the haze, and regain the enthusiam for getting down to it in confidence, rather than a chore with trepidation.

Cheers guys.

As far as I'm aware the standard set up for an "s" is a 15 tooth front sprocket, a 44 tooth rear sprocket and 525 pitch chain with 108 links. Is this correct? Correct.

1. If I exchange for OEM, how do I fit an endless chain? Angle grinder and chain riveter, or get a shop to do it!

2. If I decide on a larger rear sprocket (say 2 extra teeth) do I need to compensate with a longer chain? Yep!

3. Is there a particular advantage of X or O ring? Both good X-ring supposedly better.

4. Is Tsukabi the dogs danglies (as suggested in a few posts) or will any recognised chain manufacturer be similarly adequate? Afam, DID are as good.

5. How do alloy sprockets compare to steel sprockets? Sorry dunno about that!! Other than the alloy ones are alloy.......

6. Which ancillary parts do I need to get when exchanging? (lock washers, rivets etc...) All should be with the chain kit.

7. Does this stuff come with the kits or do you buy 'em separately? See above.

8. Which supplier would you recommend? Whoever can supply what you want at the best price.

HTH!!

[flymo]

How do alloy sprockets compare to steel sprockets? Sorry dunno about that!! Other than the alloy ones are alloy.......

Advantages are that the alloy sprockets are lighter at the expense of faster wear rates. The main reason people switch to 520 chain sets are also to do with weight.

For a road bike I dont personally see any reason why you would need to go for 520.

[Red Herring]

Alloy rear sprockets are lighter = less unsprung weight = better on a race/competition bike. Allow rear sprockets wear out much faster = bad on a road bike!

Technically if you buy an endless chain you will have to either break it, or remove the swingarm to fit it. Most come already broken with either a split link (like the ones you use on your pushbike) or a soft link to join it back together. I don't like split links on a road bike, and I avoid them on my race bike as well. Soft links need either a special rivit tool to fit, or some improvisation and practice with pair of molewrench, a spare nut and a hammer and a drift to fit (to complicated to explain). Best option unless you know what you are doing is to buy the chain somewhere and get someone who knows what they are doing to fit it. What you definately don't want if the chain coming off at any kind of speed!

Answers inline...

Originally Posted by Spudsta71

More questions.
1. If I exchange for OEM, how do I fit an endless chain? - if you're not sure how to go about fitting a new chain get a garage to do it. Also you'll need a chain breaker/riveter which are pretty pricey.
2. If I decide on a larger rear sprocket (say 2 extra teeth) do I need to compensate with a longer chain? Yep - sure do!
3. Is there a particular advantage of X or O ring? X-ring seals are supposedly better, but O-ring chains are still very good. Go with at least o-ring.
4. Is Tsukabi the dogs danglies (as suggested in a few posts) or will any recognised chain manufacturer be similarly adequate? DID, AFAM, Regina and EK are all decent makes.
5. How do alloy sprockets compare to steel sprockets? Steel sprockets last much longer than alloy ones! If you want serious bling with good quality check out Supersprox sprockets
6. Which ancillary parts do I need to get when exchanging? (lock washers, rivets etc...) You'll get all parts needed with chain. But not the tools mentioned in 1 above
7. Does this stuff come with the kits or do you buy 'em separately? See previous
8. Which supplier would you recommend? - Lots of good sources from local shops, to online retailers to ebay sellers.

Its not a complicated job - but its important that its done right. Either get someone who's done it before to help you (they may already have the required tools) or get a bikeshop to do it. Not a job you want to do half-right.

Any information that anyone could add would be gratefully received. Please help me to clear the haze, and regain the enthusiam for getting down to it in confidence, rather than a chore with trepidation.

Cheers guys.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Jester666

1. If I exchange for OEM, how do I fit an endless chain? Angle grinder and chain riveter, or get a shop to do it!

6. Which ancillary parts do I need to get when exchanging? (lock washers, rivets etc...) All should be with the chain kit.

OR, you can pull the swingarm and clean and grease the bearings while you're in there. Won't hurt, and they're bloody expensive if they sieze up.

Lock washer won't be included in a chain kit, I'd replace the nut and washer if I were you, suzuki parts but might save you a lot of hassle and possible expense if the original nut backs off

[rictus01]

Errrr just to point out guys, endless chains don't have to be cut you know, so no need of angle grinders or chain splitters r indeed riveters, however the swing arm will need to be removed for fitment.

So in the first question an "endless" chain can be fitted without any cutting taking place.

The third question about X & O ring simply refers to the shape of the rubber seal in cross section (the one holding the grease in the links) O ring provide a single contact point top & bottom and obviously X ring provide a double, however both will fail without proper care and maintinance of the chain and O ring are cheaper and last as long.

Question six, if you're buying a kit ask, you may get a top sprocket lock washer, but more than likely won't, Oh and don't forget you'll need the castled socket (or make one,use a drift) to remove the swingarm retainings.

Cheers Mark.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by rictus01

Question six, if you're buying a kit ask, you may get a top sprocket lock washer, but more than likely won't, Oh and don't forget you'll need the castled socket (or make one,use a drift) to remove the swingarm retainings.

Cheers Mark.

So you would advise replacing the locknut and washer?

[flymo]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

So you would advise replacing the locknut and washer?

Depends on the condition of the one you take off, but personally no I wouldnt bother. I used the same one for years on a race bike until it had seen better days. i keep a spare washer in my tool box just in case at the track.

[rictus01]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

So you would advise replacing the locknut and washer?

In an ideal world yeah sure change both, however being practical, unless the nut has been damaged undoing it, that will be fine and you can* get away with reversing the lock washed ONCE and bending the taps the other way, although for the cost I'd probably replace.

* caution if you are unsure how many times it's been used, replace it.

Cheers Mark.