My '00 dies at 6k

I mean really dies - if I hit 6-6,500 RPM it seems like someone put the kick stand down. Complete engine failure. The Gas dash light comes on and the RPM's die to 0. If I hit the clutch I can coast for a few seconds and then release and start back up. If I don't hit it soon enough I'm thrust forward and the rear tire locks up.
Where should I look first? I know it's not the kick stand.

Thanks ahead.

[fizzwheel]

It'd help if you told us a little more about your bike, model, milleage, is it standard, past history etc etc.

At first glance I'd say you have some kind of eletrical gremlin going on there, but dont hold me to that...

Oh and welcome to the forum by the way.

Thank you for the quick response. I'll do my best to provide all the info I can; the bike is my first and is still new to me. It is a naked 2000 SV650 with an ss Yoshi exhaust, that's the only upgrade or mod I can see. It has high mileage, about 26K and change, 450 of that if from me driving it this month.
I'm scared to even contemplate the history of the bike. The frame looks 100% and the plastic looks 95%, but since the milage is high I'm guessing it was rebuilt at some time and may even have spent some time on the track.

[dizzyblonde]

Originally Posted by kphinney

Thank you for the quick response. I'll do my best to provide all the info I can; the bike is my first and is still new to me. It is a naked 2000 SV650 with an ss Yoshi exhaust, that's the only upgrade or mod I can see. It has high mileage, about 26K and change, 450 of that if from me driving it this month.
I'm scared to even contemplate the history of the bike. The frame looks 100% and the plastic looks 95%, but since the milage is high I'm guessing it was rebuilt at some time and may even have spent some time on the track.

thats not high mileage chick. My '00' has 34k on it and is pristine. You may be surprised that age doesn't always mean old and tatty.However, My '01' was old and tatty looking(after a hard paper round) at 21k and had to be rebuilt, so now is pristine again.

Not sure about your prob, but someone with knowledge in my kitchen seems to think its the charging system....reg/recs are a known source of this type of prob.

welcome to the org kphinney!

+1 what fizz says, electricals. Sounds similar to prob's I had when my regulator/rectifier packed in at about the same mileage as your bike has on it. Mine would start and tickover OK, but as soon as you got over about 4 - 5000rpm it died or there was serious loss of power. If coasting at low speed there's so much compression in the engine that when it did die it would lock the rear. I was very worried. But don't fear the high mileage, as long as it's had regular oil change it shouldn't have suffered, just bearings and suchlike start to wear out and need replacement.

Will the bike start and tickover OK? Does the problem happen when hot or cold or both? You should be able to download owners manuals somewhere online as well, that might offer some tips for troubleshooting.

Starts up fine, but it requires to sit with the choke on for a few minutes in the AM. The die-out occurs both hot and cold.
Rectifier, aye? I'm new to bikes, but on other engines the Regulator/Rectifier would seem to be akin to the alternator and charging system. I can understand how it would cause my battery to drain out or not give a clean high volt shot on starting, but I can't see how it would cause a deadzone.

AND THANKS for the warm welcome to all of you.

Do you get any 'flashing' from the electrics or the needle on the rev counter going wild? Also have you been doing it with a full load, such as the lights on, or off?

Originally Posted by Grinch

Do you get any 'flashing' from the electrics or the needle on the rev counter going wild? Also have you been doing it with a full load, such as the lights on, or off?

Typical low-beam lights and no other electronics. Not a super load on the engine either.

The needle doesn't jump, it dives for zero. I didn't keep an eye on the electronics lights, but I don't think they were flashing. (I was a bit busy keeping my ass off the car behind me while averting a skid.)

[embee]

If the tach is going to zero it would suggest loss of ignition feed to the coils (at the very least, probably other things going on too).

There are a number of well known and documented places on the curvey where the wiring harnesses get damaged.
Check behind both of the riders seat fixing bolts, they are a bit too long and hit the wiring.
Also under the pillion seat inside the tail on the left side the wiring wraps round a frame bracket and can wear through.
Generally check round the steering headstock area where the harnesses flex as you turn the bars.

Originally Posted by embee

If the tach is going to zero it would suggest loss of ignition feed to the coils (at the very least, probably other things going on too).

There are a number of well known and documented places on the curvey where the wiring harnesses get damaged.
Check behind both of the riders seat fixing bolts, they are a bit too long and hit the wiring.
Also under the pillion seat inside the tail on the left side the wiring wraps round a frame bracket and can wear through.
Generally check round the steering headstock area where the harnesses flex as you turn the bars.

Will do. It seems to be a good place to start. Anyone know how to check the rectifier? Since it only has occurred at 6k I'm concerned that it's not just a short due to wire damage.