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#1 |
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Hi all
![]() The last few times I've ridden my sv, it's taken a few goes to get the engine started. I think the choke might need adjusting; when the engine does start, there's a delay before the choke comes in to bring up the revs, and the engine not starting may be due to the choke not coming in quick enough. Also, when the bike's warming up and I've got the choke down a bit the revs go up and down which would be the choke cutting in and out? Is there a way to adjust the choke? Also, while on the subject, I've gotta ask a real noobie question; how long do y'all keep the choke on for when starting the bike? The sv's manual says 30 seconds at 2500rpm but I've been warming it up at 3500rpm for a few minutes while I get my riding gear on. Have I harmed the choke doing this? Sorry for the long post! |
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#2 |
Noisy Git
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The chokes just a control, you can't really harm it as its just a little plunger.
IMO only warm it up untill it will sustain on its own on both pots with no knocking and banging noises from it running too slow. There is also no adjustment in the clutch except for the cable on the bars, but don't wind it out too far or you'll have it staying open which will end in more problems. Hunting around at idle as you describe could be choke related but don't rule out an air leak, does it pop and bang when warm or is it alright? My advice re choke problems, take the cable off, grease the lever, run some grease/oil down the cable, fill the splitter with grease, clean the plungers and grease behind them where the spring is.
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#3 |
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As above, the choke plungers where they go into the carb bodies are well known for seizing up which can be a bit of a pain.
That aside I tend to suggest that leaving your bike to idle for long periods without any load on the engine to warm it up doesn't do it any good, start it, put on your gloves, get the choke off as soon as it'll idle properly and ride off. Jambo
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#4 |
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The cable to the choke on the rear carb may even have snapped, as it did on mine. Even if you have gone to the trouble of lubing the choke cable from the handlebar end, it probably wont have reached the rear section.
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#5 |
Noisy Git
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That's why you pack the splitter with grease, it works its way down after a while and also stops water from running down from the lever area.
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#6 |
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I've not tried packing the splitter with grease, but I have oiled at that point and from the choke plunger end too when I've had reason to remove the carbs.
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#7 |
Noisy Git
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Easiest way, spray grease, but get the nozzle from another can with a tube on the end of it and fill the thing up. A bit does splurge out the first time the chokes operated, but anyone who's seen my bike has probably figured this doesn't bother me much lol
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#8 |
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hmmm my choke plungers are seized. Is there a certain way of doing them? Do you just undo that screw at the side of the cable (it's knackered on mine so I need to hack saw it and make it a flathead if you know what I mean) and then is it a case of cleaning it with carb cleaner or something?
I've packed the splitter with grease so hopefully that's working it's way down there.
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#9 |
Noisy Git
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I did a vid a while ago on how to crack the screws off. Want it?
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#10 |
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please mate!
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