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#1 |
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hey was just looking on the brspecial tuning website and came across this http://www.motorcycle-exhausts.co.uk...oducts_id=3538 i was wondering if anyone could give me some more details and fill me in on any performance gains if they have one fitted or have had one fitted b4.
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#2 |
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Looks like jets and needle in that kit, no filter mentioned, you wont get a massive gain, but if you put a few extra bits together you might get a few extra bhp out of it.
altho as the guys alwasy say here, unless you have a full system you wont see a huge lift. |
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#3 |
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I had a Factory Pro kit fitted to my Sv. It worked well for about 8k miles then I started getting fueling problems. It seems the needles wear the emulsion tube, and the only solution appears to be new carbs.
![]() Don't know if the Dynojet kit will cause the same problems. Last edited by petevtwin650; 02-02-09 at 11:57 AM. Reason: Crappy memory |
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#4 |
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You may not acheive more maximum power - but lets face it, who uses maximum power all the time anyway!
But that, with a good air filter (BMC? K&N?) and a full system (M4?), and you could liberate a few top end BHP and probably get even better gains throughout the mid-range. And with a correctly set up fueling system, smooth throttle response too throughout the rev range ![]() |
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#5 |
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Sod all gain unless you actually need to rejet, which since you haven't mentioned a big list of mods then it doesn't sound like it..
Wayyyyy overpriced. Them needles are carb-files! They will turn your emulsion tubes oval. If you feel the need to modify stuff then you're better advised to try allens performance for genuine mikuni jets for about £3 each rather than £90!
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#6 | ||
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True, a BMC and a decent full system will give you a little more oomph (not necessarily an M4, they work best on heavily modified engines) Quote:
+ 1 |
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#7 |
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M4 is the only one that really springs to mind, its mentioned alot on here.
I need a new air filter by the way, and i was thinking of getting a K&N or BMC - but will i definatly need to re-jet? If i do, then sod it, i'll get the suzuki part and be done with it |
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#8 | |
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Go for the K&N if you don't want to rejet, it doesn't flow much better than OEM but if has the advantage of being washable. |
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#9 |
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The Dynojet stage1 is only any use for minor corrections needed for aftermarket filter (but not BMC RS type) and exhaust set up. The gains will be very small and nothing a good tuner couldn't achieve with stock needles and different mains. I have measured the Dynojet needle and found them very close to standard but they have a slightly smaller maximum diameter (the same effect could be achieved by increasing the fuel level and at no cost!). The stage 3 setup involves using K&N individual pod filters (or similar) and gives more top end power but expect bottom and mid range power to suffer a little, not great for real world riding in my opinion.
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#10 |
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That's a pretty terrible kit... The DJ stage 1 kit is pretty useless now because it was designed around the original K&N filter, which was actually MORE restrictive than standard (or at least, this is my interpretation, it's either that or all of the suggested settings are wrong). So, the end result is that the suggested settings are complete rubbish- and that's really what you're paying for here, R&D- and the jets provided won't neccesarily work for you, since they don't go very big (144 or 146 if memory serves).
The stage 1&3 kit is the same kit, but also has some provision for an equally badly researched pod filter setup, using tiny K&Ns which make no sense- so you get, I think it's a 180 and 185 main as well. You also get replacement slide springs, which some people say are actually identical to standard (mine seemed slightly stiffer, but I didn't actually test them). So, basically, fail. All you're really getting is the needle, which is OK, and a load of jets. So about £10 worth of stuff. If you do want a DJ kit, then the JHS one is OK, if they still do it- it used to be £150, and came with the Race RS filter. Very expensive but the settings were well tested, it's basically the DJ kit with all the mistakes taken out. It totally pains me to recommend a JHS product, but I do wish I'd bought this. Instead, I got the stage 1&3 kit linked, and then spent hours fixing DJ's errors and making it work. Which it now does, and gives just a wee bit of power. At the end of the day, rejetting or remapping isn't something you do to gain power, it's something you do to fix bad fuelling. IE, you want to fit a full system. It's a means to an end for most bikes, not an end in itself, the exceptions being bikes that fuel badly as standard.
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