Stuck brake pad pin. - SV650.org

06-02-06, 12:11 PM

Can't get the damb thing out! read the other threads on this but it tends to concentrate on the front brake pins, the rear have not got a head on them so I can't get molegrips on them, the gap between the pads is TOO small, any advise?? I DO NOT want to drill them out!!

northwind · 06-02-06, 12:25 PM

You can split the caliper usually, even if the pins are stuck- doesn't fix the problem but gets around it as you can clean the pins up and replace pads etc.

BillyC · 06-02-06, 12:27 PM

If you've got the older, curvy bike, then this is a problem. You probably will have to drill something, though this could be limited to a small hole in the back of the caliper so you can knock the pin through. TSM's done this I believe, so it might be best asking him.

The pointy's with the single piston caliper aren't nearly so bad for this. However, at the end of the day, you might be able to fix this by getting hte caliper off, and giving it some TLC.

timwilky · 06-02-06, 12:40 PM

I think most people have suffered this problem.

I ended up splitting the caliper, one pin then came out with mole grips and a good soaking in penetrating oil, the other snapped off into the caliper base and I ended up drilling it out (From the broken end so stilll a blind hole).

Both pins were replaced alongside a very expensive seal kit. About £24 for 2 piston seals, 2 dust seals and an o ring for the caliper split.

plenty of copper grease in the pin holes when rebuilding. During my service last week I took the opportunity to regrease the pins. One was a tad siezed afer 18 months. So I would probably recommend that the pins are greased annualy. It is literally a 5 minute job if they are maintained.

06-02-06, 12:43 PM

Mine were seized in when it came to pad replacement time. I drilled the back of the caliper with a small drill bit (ie about half the diameter of the pins) and knocked the pins out with a 2mm diameter panel pin. Seemed to work OK, and there's still plenty of meat at the bottom of the pin location holes for them to seat against.

I guess the problem is that these holes may allow dirt, salt etc into the back of the pins, making them seize worse next time. I filled the holes with copper grease to help prevent this. Will see how effective that is at next pad change.

If that don't work then, as Northwind says, I think you're splitting the caliper.

The folks with more expertise than I might know of a better way to do it though.

Cheers Keith

Viney · 06-02-06, 12:46 PM

I got the pins oput without splitting the caliper, but then drilled the blind hole and fitted longer pins. as for the front. I have chamfered the ends of the pins ever so slightly and i dont add any greese at all but throuroughly clened the hole. This was this time last year. I checked them over this weekend and the pins came out perfect and the claliper was pretty gunky!

06-02-06, 02:58 PM

Sorry to sound blonde, but if split the caliper, can i do it "insitu" cos I don't want to have to empty the hydrolic fluid and refill and bleed etc. I'm lazy but if i must, i must. Let me know please!

Thanks for all the replies so far.

Viney · 06-02-06, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dangle_kt

Sorry to sound blonde, but if split the caliper, can i do it "insitu" cos I don't want to have to empty the hydrolic fluid and refill and bleed etc. I'm lazy but if i must, i must. Let me know please!

Thanks for all the replies so far.

No you will have to ake it off and the fact that the fluid goes through the caliper anyhoo. The rear brake is well easy to bleed anyway.

06-02-06, 04:08 PM

cheers :banana:

Viney · 06-02-06, 04:16 PM

No worries. What i didnt add, is that as long as you dont pump the lever once the caliper is off, this will make the bleeding process easier!

06-02-06, 12:11 PM	#1
Dangle_kt Guest Posts: n/a	Stuck brake pad pin. Can't get the damb thing out! read the other threads on this but it tends to concentrate on the front brake pins, the rear have not got a head on them so I can't get molegrips on them, the gap between the pads is TOO small, any advise?? I DO NOT want to drill them out!!

06-02-06, 12:25 PM	#2
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	You can split the caliper usually, even if the pins are stuck- doesn't fix the problem but gets around it as you can clean the pins up and replace pads etc. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

06-02-06, 12:27 PM	#3
BillyC Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: The exiles of Kent Posts: 2,184	If you've got the older, curvy bike, then this is a problem. You probably will have to drill something, though this could be limited to a small hole in the back of the caliper so you can knock the pin through. TSM's done this I believe, so it might be best asking him. The pointy's with the single piston caliper aren't nearly so bad for this. However, at the end of the day, you might be able to fix this by getting hte caliper off, and giving it some TLC. __________________ SV650 K3 - Gone. Now a member of the SV650.org Kawasaki brigade!

06-02-06, 12:40 PM	#4
timwilky Member Mega Poster Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Not in Yorkshire. (Thank God) Posts: 4,116	I think most people have suffered this problem. I ended up splitting the caliper, one pin then came out with mole grips and a good soaking in penetrating oil, the other snapped off into the caliper base and I ended up drilling it out (From the broken end so stilll a blind hole). Both pins were replaced alongside a very expensive seal kit. About £24 for 2 piston seals, 2 dust seals and an o ring for the caliper split. plenty of copper grease in the pin holes when rebuilding. During my service last week I took the opportunity to regrease the pins. One was a tad siezed afer 18 months. So I would probably recommend that the pins are greased annualy. It is literally a 5 minute job if they are maintained. __________________ Not Grumpy, opinionated.

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06-02-06, 12:43 PM	#5
Well Oiled Guest Posts: n/a	Mine were seized in when it came to pad replacement time. I drilled the back of the caliper with a small drill bit (ie about half the diameter of the pins) and knocked the pins out with a 2mm diameter panel pin. Seemed to work OK, and there's still plenty of meat at the bottom of the pin location holes for them to seat against. I guess the problem is that these holes may allow dirt, salt etc into the back of the pins, making them seize worse next time. I filled the holes with copper grease to help prevent this. Will see how effective that is at next pad change. If that don't work then, as Northwind says, I think you're splitting the caliper. The folks with more expertise than I might know of a better way to do it though. Cheers Keith

06-02-06, 12:46 PM	#6
Viney Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: In the shadows to the left Posts: 7,700	I got the pins oput without splitting the caliper, but then drilled the blind hole and fitted longer pins. as for the front. I have chamfered the ends of the pins ever so slightly and i dont add any greese at all but throuroughly clened the hole. This was this time last year. I checked them over this weekend and the pins came out perfect and the claliper was pretty gunky!

06-02-06, 02:58 PM	#7
Dangle_kt Guest Posts: n/a	Sorry to sound blonde, but if split the caliper, can i do it "insitu" cos I don't want to have to empty the hydrolic fluid and refill and bleed etc. I'm lazy but if i must, i must. Let me know please! Thanks for all the replies so far.

06-02-06, 04:08 PM	#9
Dangle_kt Guest Posts: n/a	cheers :banana:

06-02-06, 04:16 PM	#10
Viney Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: In the shadows to the left Posts: 7,700	No worries. What i didnt add, is that as long as you dont pump the lever once the caliper is off, this will make the bleeding process easier!