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#1 |
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Hi everyone, i've got my bike's MOT coming up the end of this month. There are a few bits which obviously need doing for it and i need a bit of advice with. It's a naked curvy.
It's got (so i'm told by the previous owner) a Renegade race can on it. It's a single can, seen in the pic below, and has a nice volume to it but i doubt it'll pass the MOT. I think the original system would have been cut down to make this so what is it i need to put a standard back on? Do i need a complete system or just the end can? How will the end can attach etc? The bike has been rejetted for the current exhaust as well, will it run ok with the standard can on just for the MOT? Second thing, i've got a dodgy rear right indicator. Which 9 times out of 10 does not work, but if i tap it enough it will, so it's obviously not the bulb. What could it be? I'm assuming a loose connection somewhere? I've had a fiddle with it and i think it's the bulb holder which is the problem. Will i need a new one or is it a known problem or what? My speedo has also ceased to work. When i had the tyres changed a couple of weeks ago the guy said that the rotor lugs were in pieces where whoever had taken the wheel off previously had not lined them up before tightening. I'm assuming it's just a new speedo drive i need with the rotor bit and the cable. Also - i don't have a front paddock stand, or a garage with rafters. Is there any way i can improvise so i can get the front wheel off to fit the new speedo cable? I've also got a problem with my choke. The lever won't move at all. I've had the tank up and i think it's stuck where the cable goes into the front carb. How do i go about fixing this? Sorry for the long post, and thanks for your help. |
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#2 |
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Right Improvision for the new speedo drive and cable would be preferably a jack (like I use..doubt you could use a front paddock for it anyway) or a beer crate weged under the engine. Straight forward job though, apart from maybe getting to the back of the clocks. If the cables intact I'm not sure if you can just replace the drive on svs.
Chokes are likely seized best spraying loads of penetrating oil down the cable and the splitter (behind a mid section of frame on your gear side of the bike) then you'll need to remove two screws where the cables enter the carbs to release the choke plungers clean them up and grease them and put back. Then pack your cable and the splitter with grease. You may have a nightmare removing the plunger bolts though. (i certainly did). Indicators I replaced mine with LED ones as soon as they developed a fault because I've followed a sv with standard indicators on in the sunshine and the indicators are invisible. That might be an idea. If not check your wiring and check all the connections for rot. Answer to the exhaust - get a decent mot tester.
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#3 |
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right, the exhaust issue requires a link pipe to fit a standard onto your cut system, you may get away with a DB killer if the can doesn't have the words "not for road use" on it.
the indicator can probably be fixed with a soldering iron or clean of a furry connection. The speedo problem requires just the rotor maagnet bit (about £12-15) relpacing, the cable and drivehousing should be fine, in order to raise the front, put the bike on a rear paddock stand and carefully jack under the front of the engine, (I'd advise you put a bit of 2" x 2" across a pair of axle stands under it; before working on it). Whilst the choke issue will need addressing (lookup plunger or cheese screws) it's not something tested for MOT. HTH Cheers Mark.
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#4 |
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good post rictus , far more informed than me! glad you turned up.
Oh yeah I picked up a db killer for mine the other day about £15, made me hate my bike though ![]()
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#5 |
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we do bike mot's where i work and although i only test cars myself, my boss (and bike tester) told me last week that any exhaust should pass the mot even if stamped not for road use.
its confusing because vosa keep changing the rules for bike exhausts aswell as number plates, but it is still illegal as far as plod are concerned! |
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