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#1 |
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I've always been really handy with a rattle can and have done plenty of jobs using them and acheived some impressive results using them, so i've decided to give it a go and a larger scale.
so i've got my compressor, it does 8cfm which i'm told should be enough for small projects like motorbikes, got my gun, my airlines, my respirator etc - haven't found anywhere dry and dust free to do it yet mind i need some info, i've bought a metallic graphite grey colour, activator/hardner and thinners, i havn't been able to get hold of a viscosity cup yet, but what sort of quantities do they need to be mixed in? does all basecoat need an activator, what about the lacquer? i'll be using 2k clear coat, basically if someone who actually knows what they are doing can give me some general guidence it would be appreciated, or point me in the direction of a webpage they may be of some use |
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#2 |
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I phoned my local coach works - they were awesome for help
he said about 80% of his work is now boy racers bumpers and skirts! |
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#3 |
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Hi,
Ok heres the score, The primer should be a 2k type you use, this will require activator to be mixed in, the correct mix will be written on the tin. This will also then need to be mixed with thinners then filtered so thin it nicely so you dont have lumps etc come out the gun. The colour will not need an activator unless it states on the tin, its mostly old solid colours that dont require a clear coat that need activator. I generally mix colour coats about 50/50 mix with thinners but no activator unless it states. Again its best to filter this so that theres no bits etc in it when you put it inot a gun. The clear coat again will have a mixing ratio on the container that will say something like 3:1 for example. This again will need to be thinned and filtered to ensure theres no bits etc in the paint. I would reccomend you go to buy some proper mixing cups and some filters, there cheap as chips like ten of each for a couple of quid. This will make a difference. I would also go and buy a metal mixing ratio ruler so that you can ensure that you get the right mix, if the mix is off with hardener then you will have issues with either setting too fast or not setting at all or even dry and wet patches. Hope this helps you. If you need any more info give me a shout. Rory |
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#4 | |
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the clearcoat needs thinners and hardner? there is nothing written on the clear coat, whats the general ratio clear/tinner/activator? or does it vary. i seen them metal rulers with the guides on, might go pick one up |
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#5 |
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The mixing ratios do vary between brands etc which is why it is important to get it right.
What brand of lacquer is it il see if I've got any information on the mixing ratio for you. Its abnormal tho not to have a ratio stamped on the tin. |
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#6 |
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looks like its just made at the place i bought it, coz its a white tin, with a handwritten label
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#7 | |
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#8 |
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In that case you will need to ring them and ask for the correct mixing ratio for that brand.
it could possibly be 1k single pack lacquer in which case it doesnt need mixing. does it say 1k or 2k on the label? |
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#9 |
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dunno, the g/f got it for my birthday, dont recognise the name, 2hp, 25l, 8cfm, which is enought to paint the bike, probably from machine mart, or screwfix
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#10 |
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2k, i'm gonna go down there now and get a metal mixing rule of them, and i'll ask em what the ratios are
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