SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking Discussion and chat on all topics and technical stuff related to the SV650 and SV1000 Need Help: Try Searching before posting |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#1 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Hi all!
So, I'm finally getting around to replacing the slightly leaky fork seal on my 2001 650s... Any tips and tricks you might have to make the process easier? I replaced the fork springs and oil a while back, so I'm comfortable getting them that far. I didn't have the parts necessary to replace the seals while I was at it though. Any special tools that made the job easier for you? Thanks! -Troy |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sunbury Middlesex
Posts: 1,396
|
![]()
Good evening.
Slightly loosen the top bolt before removing the forks from the bike, as they can be tight & it's more difficult to hold the forks when they're off the bike. Before attempting to undo the bottom bolt, give it a couple of sharp taps with a hammer & centre punch. This will compress the copper washer under the bolt head, therefore making it easier to remove. If you find that the damper rod turns when attempting to undo the bottom bolt, inverting the forks & sliding them onto a sharpened wooden broom handle usually does the trick of holding the damper rod. Especially if a rubber glove is wrapped around the end of the broom handle. I always rub the stanchions down with 1200 wet & dry, & plenty of silicone lubricant. This will flatten any tiny nicks in the stanchions chrome, & give the new seals a fighting chance. Lightly grease within the slider, in the area where the upper bush & the fork seal sit. This will make installing the bush & the new seal easier, easpecially if you lightly oil the outside of the bush & the seal. Use a copper drift to install the top bush. You can make one from a short length of 15mm copper tubing, with the end suitably flattened & shaped. Use the old seal to drift in the new one. Cut out the centre of the old seal to prevent damage to the centre of the new one. Don't forget to anneal the copper washer on the bottom bolt. Heat it up until it's cherry red & let it cool down. (Don't use the cooker if the Mrs is in) Get it right, new fork tubes are expensive ![]() Cheers. Last edited by Spanner Man; 18-08-09 at 04:29 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
Wow! Excellent advice all around, and a good write-up!
Well, I hope. I'll let you know how good it was after this weekend. ![]() ![]() -Troy |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Replacing caliper seal set help | Holdup | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 3 | 06-06-09 10:07 PM |
Got any tips for replacing the rear wheel? | ejohnh | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 3 | 21-08-08 09:15 PM |
Fork seal again | dirtydog | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 12 | 03-12-07 10:34 PM |
Fork Seal Replacement | Luckypants | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 11 | 18-02-07 03:40 PM |
Fork Seal Splitting? | Sledgehammer | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 4 | 30-04-05 09:29 PM |