Possible Electrical Fault After Theft!

K5 Model, Pointy, 33bhp, Stolen/Recovered.

Basically had my bike attempted to be stolen, dumped when they failed and been recovered. Everything is basically bodged back together while I am waiting on parts.
In relation to the electrics problem/possible problem.

Ignition wires were cut, as they were trying to hotwire it, that failed.
tested the battery, was showing 2V, put on optimate, put back into the bike, tried starting, nothing. Tested again, showed 2V again.
Put in a new battery, showed 13V, put into bike, everything worked and fired up.

There are 5 wires coming from the ignition barrel, all wiring diagrams I have found only show 4.

I have 2 reds, no markings, one orange with yellow/green marks, one plain orange and a brown wires with yellow/grren marks.
So I have a spare red, anyone got any ideas.

I thought the two red were kill switch wires, so one would be live and one would not be?
Tested them, but both are live, anyone got any ideas?
Connected as I saw fit, i.e the bends in the wire and where I think they would connect to. With the new battery everything works.

But when I turned the ignition on for the first time, the needle on the tach only went to 7k revs, paused there, then went back to 0revs.
Is this a sign of anything?

When I went for a test run today, needle didn't move at all I think, but will check tomorrow.

No fault lights, headlights, indys, clocks all light up.
All fuses are fine.
Fuel pump primes as normal too.
Everything starts ok, everything ran ok today on my test run...

Cheers for reading, David.

sally-don't think this will help but maybe worth a try-go to the wiring diagram this dude made might give you an idea

http://bolty.net/2008/06/24/sv650-20...iring-diagram/

Yeah I found that, but as it shows, there are only 4 wires coming from the ignition barrel...
I have them 4, plus a 5th, which is also red, with no marking to tell between the 2 other red wires..
Just a bit confused... :\

[fastdruid]

That's because both red wires are for all intents and purposes the same. You could connect them to the other two ends either way or even in an X.

Its not shown on the wiring diagram because they're identical and not needed to be shown.

Druid

Ahh thanks.

I tried swapping them round, made no difference, so I presumed it would be ok either way!

See when the ignition wires are cut, and attempted to to hot wired, would that give me any electrical trouble, i.e dead battery etc?

[fastdruid]

Probably like when they tried to steal mine they flattened the battery trying to start it. Mine was found the next morning (I got a call waking me up to say "the police have found your bike", what, eh, its parked outside etc) so wasn't flat for more than a few hours tops, if it was left for a few days it could just have died from that.

Druid

Yeah battery was dead, but it shouldn't be, or should it?
Hasn't the pointy got a resistor in the ignition barrel to start hot wiring?
So the battery shouldn't have went flat?
Or maybe the starter motor would have been turning, but if the fuel pump wasn't priming, then it would have ran down the battery, but not started it?

[fastdruid]

They probably did what they did with mine, shorted the wires together which gives the appearance of everything being connected. Then they flattened it by trying to start it on the starter but as you say it won't *actually* start without that resistor.

Druid

Ahh ok makes sense now, cheers.

So anyone got any ideas why the needle doesn't span the tach and reset?
It sometimes goes to 7K, pauses, then resets.
Or doesnt span the tach at all...

Could be a sign of an under lying problem?

my needle dosent span the tach at all apart from when i first turn the bike on coming after been in dealer mode after that it never does it