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#1 |
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Hello All,
I would like to request the forums assistance in trying to pinpoint the specific problem with my 2003 SV 650S (~9k miles). I posted earlier stating that my bike was turning over but not starting. I waited about a week to finally try and jump-start it. I noticed upon turning the key, that the fuel pump would not pressurize and the lights on the dash were very dim. I automatically assumed the battery was almost dead. Jump-started just fine, and proceeded to ride the bike around the neighborhood for a good 10 minutes, when it died while approaching a stoplight. Moved the bike to a safe spot and turned the key...no sign of battery life as the dash was completely unlit and no fuel pump noise. Had a friend jump-start the bike, everything worked fine, until he took the cables off the battery and the bike died on the spot. Tried it twice more, bike would start but die within a minute. His prognosis was that the battery was shot and needs to be replaced. Does this sound like a feasible conclusion? I have also been told by various friends that my terminal cables may be in need of replacement, or that my alternator is not charging the battery properly. Bought the bike about 2 years ago and do not ride often, maybe 2-3 times a month. It has been sitting in the garage a lot, and I just now realized that I made the mistake of starting it and shutting it off without riding every 2 weeks. Apparently, this drains the battery quickly. Thanks in advance ![]() |
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#2 |
No, I don't lend tools.
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If it stops when the jump leads are removed then the charging system is not functioning correctly. Even if the battery were flat the bike's own system should provide all the current needed to run the bike and re-charge the battery. First remove the battery, try charging it and try again, does the battery accept charge? If yes and the bike starts and runs OK then you will need to check the charging system. This may not be a fix - it just allows you to get the bike running so that the problem may be diagnosed.
The first and most obvious test is to put a voltmeter across the battery terminals when the engine is running, anything less than ~13 or so volts is indicative of a problem, rev the engine to about 5000rpm and the voltage should rise to a maximum of approximately 14.7 volts even if the lights are on, if both or either of these are not found to be the case there is a problem, which might be caused by the regulator, the alternator, the wiring or indeed the battery. Has the bike been unused for a while? If yes then the battery is suspect - if the battery has been left flat for any period of time it will very likely be useless.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#3 |
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Hello Sid,
Many thanks for your reply. To further elaborate, the bike started and continued to run after the first jump-start for about a minute. Second time, it died right after the leads were removed from the battery. Third time, bike ran about 30 seconds or less after the leads were removed. I believe (with my limited knowledge) that the battery has gone completey bad and cannot retain any level of charge. The bike has been sitting in my garage for the past 1-2 months and I have not been riding it at all. I did, however, on several occasions, foolishly start the bike to let it run and then shut it off without riding it. I feel as though the battery lost a lot of it's charge during the entire time the bike sat in the garage, and then went flat after I started it a few times. Does this sound like the most typical scenario? If so, I will purchase a new battery. Thanks! |
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#4 |
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Save your brass, purchase a multimeter first and do Sid's tests
Your symptoms are indicative of a charging failure. But without the tests, it is impossible to know where.
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Not Grumpy, opinionated. Last edited by timwilky; 20-05-10 at 12:24 PM. |
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#5 | |
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#6 | |
No, I don't lend tools.
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If a new battery proves necessary don't scrimp on it, quality batteries are most definately worth the money.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#7 |
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Hello,
Thank you to all for the responses. I will go and purchase a multimeter and try to obtain the necessary information. I may have a few more questions in regard to proper operation once I obtain the device. Thanks again! |
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#8 |
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Hello Everyone,
Thanks again for all the input in regard to my last posted question. I have just received my multimeter and need to know how to proceed with the required tests to verify if my battery is shot, or if I may have a charging problem. I am not very mechanically inclined, so I hope this is not going to be a monumental task. Thanks in advance. |
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#9 | |
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Good morning all. Set the voltmeter to DC volts using a low setting if possible. Around 20 volts is ideal. Get the engine running & put the meter probes across the battery terminals. The positive meter probe to the positive terminal, & the black probe to the negative terminal. As Sid said you should see 14+ volts on the meter when the engine is revving at around 5000 rpm. This would indicate that the charging system is functioning correctly. Should your battery have a dead cell or two, you wont see 14+ volts. If the battery is only reading say 10 volts before you start the engine you are unlikely to see the correct reading. However, if the voltage rises by around 2 volts when you rev the engine, again it would indicate that the charging system is ok. I would then go ahead & buy a new battery. Ditto Sid in saying, don't skimp on quality, & get a good make. Yuasa & Varta are my preferred brands. If the meter doesn't rise by much, or at all when revving the engine, it would indicate that there is a fault with the charging system, which would rquire further investigation. Cheers. |
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#10 |
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Hello,
Once again, thanks to all for your helpful and insightful replies. I managed to perform the voltmeter test and I believe that the results prove that I need a new battery. The battery showed about 5 volts while the bike was off. Once the engine was on, the reading was around 12 and while revving at 5000 rpm the reading was around 13.6. Also, I had a friend bring a portable charging system and the bike stayed running as long as the lead was attached to the battery. Once the lead was removed, the bike would stall. Would it be relatively safe to assume that I need to purchase a new battery? Thanks |
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