Gearbox & selector fix w.i.p pics

[muzikill]

K3 Pointy.

So finally after getting the garage repaired (in the other thread) and turned into a workshop for this project i finally got started....
i am using a combination of the haynes manual and the official suzuki workshop manual (the official manual really helps as i have found the haynes manual to be lacking in detail so far)

Fluids allowed to vacate the bike & tank removed...



Air filter removed quite easily! - tagging as i go along...
i was quite suprised to see how mucky it is in there & have learnt that this should be done to this level for a service as the throttle body has mechanical moving parts & i can see its starting to get gunked up with oily dirt, once cleaned i can see certain areas will need greased as well. Remember its hidden away but a vital part!



Throttle body removed which was quite tricky to get the front clip off with the screwdriver & to get the carb itself off, the trick was to confidently pull the front off off the body off first and that back of it came out easily (must remember to put it back on that way in reverse).

ok, so i noticed in the manuals that you need to take off the throttle cables, but noticed the way they are connected which would make it a bugger to get them back on later...



So i covered it on a big bit of cloth and thick bag, tied it all togther and laid it across the yoke and tied it so it would not move! - sorted...



As you can see the top of the bike is now ready for the drop, next up are the bottom 'parts' eg. radiator exhaust etc. to be removed ready for the drop... will post more, watch this space!

"Throttle Bodies" my friend, not carbs. Good luck with the job and that's a good point about keeping the linkages all lubed. They're out of the way but still accessible through the frame.

Will watch with interest.

Garry

[muzikill]

Thanks indy, updated the mistake as i would not want to confuse anyone reading this or myself when i refer back to it in the future.

Just to let everyone know the most i have ever done mechanically is replace brakes on a car, fix a wheel hub bearing. So, this will give everyone an idea how easy some things can be up to a certain level without resorting to using a garage. Sparky by trade so handy enough to understand things as i go along - its the reverse building it all back up that concerns me at this moment in time.

Excellent! Looking forward to this one (and hopng I never have to copy it!)

Are you taking photographs of each part that comes off and putting the part and all of the fittings for that part in marked Ziplock bags? Makes things a lot easier.


C

[muzikill]

Its going to be a novice guide i will post as much as i can along the way. If i make mistakes i will post them up and will post anything i feel would help anyone in the future. I will tag and bag everything. I think colour coding hoses and connectors is a good idea so far so you remember where the go back in. Im amazed just how compact the sv engine is. If i can fix this then i would consider this as one of those life achievments. Does anyone know what parts i dont need to replace in the way of gaskets and seals?

[muzikill]

By the way apart from advice, any messages of confidence building support are welcome! . . . . Lets just say im more than nervous about doing this and making a mistake!

[yorkie_chris]

You'll need pretty much entire gasket kit. You might be able to get away without breaking the head gaskets loose but I'm not 100% on that.

At the risk of teaching grandma to suck eggs... are you DEAD sure that the 'box is knackered and it's not a shift mechanism issue?

[muzikill]

Yeah sure of it. I heard teeth or broken selector parts rattling at the bottom when it happened. The gaskets will probably be damaged when tearing them off. Thanks for the advice.

[muzikill]

update - ok so ive been stuck trying (and i mean breaking my back) to get the sv exhaust off and i posted another thread looking for tips and go hold of these
...


The bolts holding the front pipe into the engine have been a nightmare! & even using the spray the other bolt head came off



But, has left enough thread left on it to allow them to come out using something more akin to a blow torch & as i am taking the heads off i can take this to a garage to someone what knows more tricks in the book than i know.

Ok, so more bolts were taken off the exhaust system. note:for the clamp for the rear exhaust pipe going into the rear head you need to use a hex socket set for all the other you use a spanner.

Ok, another toughy bolt, the bolt underneath holding the exhaust to the underside - another travesty as it is exposed to the elements, heat but all matter of dust, dirt and water!

Got it out as far as i could but i had to cut the head off to give play to the other side so i could cut through it to release the exhaust.





As the frame/engine metal is soft as sh*t great care was taken!


After much back breaking pushing, easing & teasing of the exhaust and making the bike look like it was in the middle of an earthquake on the abba stand the exhaust dropped...



now im stuck again....



The main part of the exhaust isnt coming out of the down pipe due to not enough room to draw it back out as the rear downpipe is against the swingarm ... the real issue is the front down pipe aint for coming out of the front of the engine....... so it looks like im gonna have to post in the main part of the forum again!

Getting there

[yorkie_chris]

Front pipe:

Get the front pipe out with extreme prejudice... don't try and split that join it just leaves you with a stuck front pipe and less leverage.

Rock the front pipe side to side in the engine. It's tough pipe. Use a 4x4 bit of softwood and a 2lb hammer. It will move.

If you've still got the can on and the rear header slip joint loose, you can rag the can up and down.

**Ah bugger, just read you have that front slip joint loose. You just need to attack the front pipes joint into the engine.


Studs:

These might actually be worth waiting until you have the engine out.

A blowtorch or MAPP torch with a small pencil flame is a great tool. If you get the stud bloody hot and then oil it, you'll hopefully break the corrosion off allowing you to wind it out.

When you come to remove it, use lots of patience and heat and oil. Not brute force as it will snap.
For final removal get something cold and wet on the stud end (fiddly I know), a chunk of potato can work... then apply heat to the head casting around the boss the stud is screwed into. You want the ally to expand as much as possible.