how do i keep cam timings when removing both heads

well as the title says really how do i keep the cam timings when removing both heads, should i just turn the crank so the top is at TDC on the induction stroke on the front cylinder then mark both front and back cylinder cams up with maker pen and mark the chains where they were on the sprockets and then drop the heads, then on reassembly just line it all back up again ? a bit like when doing a cam swap ? apart from i dont rotate the crank when doing the rear cylinder ?

Ta Dan

Nothing to mark or worry about until you get to installing cams back in. Engine does not have induction or exhaust stroke until cam is in. You set one cylinder at TDC (F mark) and install cams, than turn crank one revolution to same F mark and install other cylinder cams. It does not matter where you start, front or rear.

Originally Posted by zadar

Nothing to mark or worry about until you get to installing cams back in. Engine does not have induction or exhaust stroke until cam is in. You set one cylinder at TDC (F mark) and install cams, than turn crank one revolution to same F mark and install other cylinder cams. It does not matter where you start, front or rear.

ohh right, never knew that. is it easy to muck up ? i suppose i just need to mark the curvy intake cam's up again that are in the exhaust side

how do i know that the chain is on the sprockets correctly apart from there is 16 (i think) teeth between markings ?

PS bike is FI no idea if it makes a difference

Thanks

There is always room to muck up
You mark your exhaust cams before you put them in, there is picture around you can see.
Chain and sprocket don't have marks other than 16th pin. On front you pull it up and install exhaust cam with chain tight on that side and on rear you do intake first. You align arrow with head on those, from there 16 pins for other cam.
Motor does not know how fuel gets in there, carbs or fi, so no difference.

Originally Posted by zadar

There is always room to muck up
You mark your exhaust cams before you put them in, there is picture around you can see.
Chain and sprocket don't have marks other than 16th pin. On front you pull it up and install exhaust cam with chain tight on that side and on rear you do intake first. You align arrow with head on those, from there 16 pins for other cam.
Motor does not know how fuel gets in there, carbs or fi, so no difference.

cool thanks, curvy cams are already in there at the moment, wonder if the marks are still on them :P

Cable tie the sprockets tightly to the chain before removing the bolts that hold the sprockets onto the cams, this keeps the sprockets the same number of teeth away from each other. Then leave the sprockets attached to the chain while you remove the heads. Before all of this, mark the sprocket and cam with a dob of different coloured touch up paints that overlap each part after degreasing, so you know which cam goes with which sprocket and what alignment it should be put back to.

This is the idiots guide to cam removal. More experienced home mechanics - please don't get upset at my slightly patronising method of explanation.

This method has worked on many other engines, but not sure if you can get both SV sprockets down the tunnel while still attached to the chain.

Originally Posted by Lozzo

Cable tie the sprockets tightly to the chain before removing the bolts that hold the sprockets onto the cams, this keeps the sprockets the same number of teeth away from each other. Then leave the sprockets attached to the chain while you remove the heads. Before all of this, mark the sprocket and cam with a dob of different coloured touch up paints that overlap each part after degreasing, so you know which cam goes with which sprocket and what alignment it should be put back to.

This is the idiots guide to cam removal. More experienced home mechanics - please don't get upset at my slightly patronising method of explanation.

This method has worked on many other engines, but not sure if you can get both SV sprockets down the tunnel while still attached to the chain.

you can't do that because the sv cam sprockets are fixed to the cam lobes other wise thats exactly what i would be doing :/

Originally Posted by barwel1992

you can't do that because the sv cam sprockets are fixed to the cam lobes other wise thats exactly what i would be doing :/

That's pretty poo

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Lozzo

Cable tie the sprockets tightly to the chain before removing the bolts that hold the sprockets onto the cams, this keeps the sprockets the same number of teeth away from each other. Then leave the sprockets attached to the chain while you remove the heads. Before all of this, mark the sprocket and cam with a dob of different coloured touch up paints that overlap each part after degreasing, so you know which cam goes with which sprocket and what alignment it should be put back to.

This is the idiots guide to cam removal. More experienced home mechanics - please don't get upset at my slightly patronising method of explanation.

This method has worked on many other engines, but not sure if you can get both SV sprockets down the tunnel while still attached to the chain.

There is no guaranteeing that chain lands on same tooth of crank sprocket, or which side slack lands on.

Better IMO to do it the slightly more long-handed way.

Originally Posted by Lozzo

That's pretty poo

Pressed-on sprockets are nothing new?

http://www.filestube.com/search.html...ual&select=All

Explained well in the suzuki manual. The early haynes had errors in it regarding timing,