Choke not working

sv650x - the choke doesn't seem to be doing anything at all, which would explain the trouble I've had starting it in the cold.

I've managed to get the rear choke plunger out and it moves fine. I'm just popping out to get a bendy driver to try and get the front one out as I'd rather not remove the whole carb, but even with just the rear working should there not be some noticeable difference between the choke being on and off?

Also, is LM grease suitable for the choke plungers?

[Sir Trev]

If it's the original cable do yourself a favour by replacing it. If it's not seized or semi-seized yet it will be soon, even if you do get the plungers working again.

get a can of spray lube and fit the straw to it, then scoot the lube down the splitter and wiggle the lever see if it loosens the front off,will do you short term incase you muller the cheese screws holding the plunger in

h.

Cheese screw successfully mullered. Cable lubed but not much difference. I may be imagining it but I'm sure I can hear a faint hissing noise when the choke is closed but otherwise it doesn't seem make any difference.

Is it a big job to get the carbs out? And will I get new cheese screws with a new cable, or do I need to get them separately?

carbs out is easy, getting cable tension right for throttle can be time consuming when putting back together so it snaps shut, getting the cheese screws out can be a pain but once you do, swap them for allen key headed ones-makes it much easier in future-you'll only get a cable, if you need the springs, and plungers you have to buy seperately.
check carbs are seated correctly.

I mullered the first cheese head screw not realising it was so soft. I tapped the others with an impact driver and they released easily. Cheap impact driver is only about £5 so worth buying if you don't have one.

thanks - will give it a go at the weekend. M5 x 14mm sound right for the screws?

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah something like that. M5 sounds right, maybe x15 though as I think you'll struggle buying 14mm ones.

Also with cable, it may have snapped. Get plungers out and play with lever, it may have snapped, or stuck in "on" position.

Looks like lube in through the splitter has sorted it - just needed to sit overnight. Has also cured the backfiring on overrun that I was getting - which is good I guess but it was a really nice noise

I've ordered some socket head screws anyway, but unless there's a pressing reason to sort it now I'll leave it for the moment and go for a ride instead

Now that the weather has turned cooler I am again having trouble starting the bike. Since the last post I've replaced the choke cable completely, checked the plungers, and balanced the carbs. When everything was apart both choke plungers moved freely when the choke lever was moved.

The bike has run fine, no backfiring or anything, though no real effect from the choke either. Starting the bike with the choke fully on and the bike would rev at a higher idle as expected, but only for a couple of seconds before dropping to normal idle. After this, moving the choke lever would have no perceptible effect.

I tried to start the bike a couple of days ago for the first time in 3 weeks (battery had been on charger) and it took a good 5 minutes to get it going, and again no perceptible effect from choke. Not sure what to check next?