SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking Discussion and chat on all topics and technical stuff related to the SV650 and SV1000 Need Help: Try Searching before posting |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools |
![]() |
#1 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
H Peeps
Hope you all had a good Christmas ![]() While emptying the garage of "usefull stuff" to make more room for the bike I found that the rear brake was dragging. Checked it out and found that one of the dust seals had moved and was stuck between the piston and the cylinder. So I'm getting a seal set. Question is, Haynes manual says I need to split the caliper to do this. Is this right or can I change the seals if I take the pistons out one at a time Cheers Tris |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
splitting it would be the easiest way although i dont see no reason why you cant NOT SPLIT IT apart form working in a restricted area
splitting it would possibly take less time than not splitting and there is less chance of damaging new seals when putting them in ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
I don't have any particular fears about splitting it, just the guy in the parts shop suggested that Haynes was incorrect, and splitting the caliper was not the way to go. (Though he didn't have the bits I needed)
I'll get the seals and see how it goes. Cheers Tris |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
if i were doing it id split it 4 bolts and 30 minutes tops then its back on or 2 bolts and an unsure time fiddling about
30 minutes has to win ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Mega Poster
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Not in Yorkshire. (Thank God)
Posts: 4,116
|
![]()
Split it, it is very easy but keep everything spotlessly clean.
You will probably have fun removing the pad retaining pins as they will be corroded in. even though soaked in penetrating oil only one of mine could be persuaded out and the second fractured just proud of the caliper so I had to drill it out. So probably worthwhile investing in a pair of replacement pins and a tube of copper grease before you start as well. Those seal kits are bloody expensive for what they are. Do the lot, piston seals as well as dust seals. Apply a bit of rubber grease or clean brake fluid to the piston seal before you refit the pistons. apply copper grease in the blind holes and retaining pins and don't forget which way round the pad shims go on. DOH I should have checked before I removed them
__________________
Not Grumpy, opinionated. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
I'll agree splitting is easy if the pad pins aren't siezed. Make sure you give the seal seat a good clean I use a dental probe or small screwdriver too scrape out the corrosion. It is usually corrosion behind the seal causing them to grip the piston, as the corrosion gets worse it leaves less room for the dust seal until it is eventually pulled out by the piston.
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Piston Slap at 2000 miles? | royboy4652 | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 8 | 16-07-08 07:55 AM |
Leaking piston seal | Tiger 55 | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 10 | 06-02-08 06:40 PM |
Seized brake piston? | xlewdx | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 13 | 13-11-06 09:49 AM |
2000 sv650s rear master cylinder | Endfloat | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 0 | 30-07-06 11:55 AM |
Help! Brake piston problem | HKP | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 8 | 24-05-05 12:51 PM |