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#1 |
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I know this has been covered before but that does not make it less irritating!
I recived my new Akrapovic full system yesterday so of course I wanted to put it on my bike as soon as I got home from work. All went swimmingly untill I tried to get the bolts holding the downpipes off. The first one I tried was a bit stuck. After giving it a healthy dose of WD 40 I tried to loosen it and it did move a fraction of a millimeter when suddenly it went SNAP. I now have a bolt with no head stuck in my engine ![]() ![]() I think I will have to go to my mechanic on saturday and have him get it out, I don't have the confidence to drill it out myself ![]() |
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#2 |
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How long did you leave the WD40 to soak in? How many times did you reapply it?
Sorry to hear this - must be a real ****er ![]() |
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#3 |
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I just left the WD 40 to soak in for a couple of minutes, obviously not long enough
![]() Yes, you're rigth it's a real p*sser. What makes it even worse is that I have to wait untill the 8'th of July to get it out, the mechanic is too busy to do anything about it untill then ![]() |
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#4 | |
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put some wd40 on, cover the bolt with a rag folded over a few times, give it a *light* tap with a small hammer, put a bit more WD40 on. Leave it overnight, repeat the same thing again. Then try undoing it, but don't use loads of force. If it doesn't budge leave it and repeat the process tomorrow. You can also try heating the bit concerned using a halogen lamp/hairdryer (I'm still a bit sceptical about this part- surely heat makes things expand?). An old bloke in work who keeps classic bikes told me this when I mentioned one of my bolts had seized. My immediate thought was 'balls- it won't take days for WD40 to penetrate, that's a waste of time'. Before getting a breaker bar and pre-booking my place at a garage for having the screw drilled out the next day, I gave it a go, not expecting it to work. Lo and behold, on the third day the bolt came undone as easily as if it had been coppaslip'd, but the previous day it had been stuck tight. Hope you get it sorted Rune. |
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#5 |
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Oh, and for future reference, don't snap exhaust header bolts off, they're a pain to get out.
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#6 |
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Ceri JC: thanks mate
![]() I've heard about the heating thing too. I think that the idea is to heat the part around the bolt. Now that I come to think of it I was able to move the bolt a tiny bit while the engine was hot. I might try combining a lot of WD 40 with a bit of heat. If I get the other bolts off I might be able to get a pair of molegrips or something around the bit that is outside the engine. I will get this sorted! Carsick I think you might be right ![]() |
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#7 |
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i think the point with heating is that the surfaces expand at different rates. This might be enough to move the surfaces against each other and crack/weaken any binding that may have formed. Any rubbish thats in the threads may also soften with heat.
If you heat a disc with a hole in it, the hole gets bigger. I'm not convinced this also applies to any holes anywhere.
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#8 |
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Heating may also denature any loctite that's in the thread as well. I've done this with a blow torch.
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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The very first bit of proper mechanicking I ever did was to break off a bolt in my 125's engine bolt. By turning the bolt the wrong way... Cost me £40 to have the bolt spark abraded out. I wouldn't even try to drill it out, myself, since if you fail it cuts down the pro's options...
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