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#1 |
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Okay following from another thread I'm thinking of sticking these on. I've had them for a little while now but reckon it's about time they go on.
![]() No idead from whence they came from and they have no markings on them. Bought with other bits 'n' bobs. I've got a set of JHS racing stage II carbs(jetted for a BMc full race filter) so reckon that may be alright ![]() Any other suggestions with regards to jetting for base settings. Anyone else running individual filters? Cheers Ben |
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#2 |
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Hiya
I think they look a little short on material and might be quite restrictive, I usually like to use filters with material on the top too but may just be habit ![]() See how it runs for short bursts (long lean ones might overhead pistons), monitor pull and plug colours, and change appropriately. Basically: Idle jet - up to about 1500/2000 revs Needle height and sometimes profile (jet a little too)- 1500-5000/6000 Jet - 5000-redline more fuel/air is not always more power, laminar air flow is worth a lot too, which is where an airbox wins or open mouths rule. Guessing you might end up upper 140s, low 150s with less restrictive pods. Good luck, let us know how you get on! |
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#3 |
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As I understand it (I don't know a lot on these things) The air flow from pods can be very turbulant leading to poor running at high revs and an inefficient use of the fuel provided by the carbs. That said people use them so they can't be all bad, maybe a run or 2 on a Dyno would be best to show exactly what was going on.
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#4 |
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They look a bit like the ones in the Ferraci kit.
Casting my mind back to when I was last looking at this... This is a wee bit of vague recollection mind. With the 4 inch round K&Ns, I think it's something demented like 210 Mikunis ![]() The K&N stage 2 kit comes with 180s and 190s, I think, for use with the older K&N pods.
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#5 |
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Okie cokie , here is the deal
![]() 1)Standard carbs (just to see how that goes ![]() 2)JHS racing stage II 3)Mikuni 145/147 with needle raised circlip dropped one notch All with mixture screw set at 2.5 turns. Depending on what my non-calibrated ButtDyno says , I choose that to go on a proper Dyno and go from there. Cheers Ben ps: Be sure to pull you choke every now and then even if you don't normally need to use it. The brass plunger(rear) on one of mine welded itself to the carb Body. At the moment both are plugged in with silicon. Good thing it's not winter eh. |
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#6 |
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They're S+B filters, dont mess around trying to jet for them, just lob'em in the bin.
The std airbox will prob flow more air than those. If your going for pods get the longest and largest diameter K+N's you can and raise the tank, not for airflow but extra room for longer filters. I think even with the tank raised one of the filters is slightly squashed by the tank. Get a K+N catalogue as there's pages of filters with dimensions and its alot easier than trying to find them on the website. Foam socks/pods dont work well either, as said before they cause a messy, turbulant airflow, especially when so close to the inlet |
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#7 | |
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#8 |
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If you remove the airbox you will need to fit some velocity stacks between the filters and carbs or it will run like crap. I wouldn't fit those things tho, Look way too small
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#9 |
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![]() ![]() ![]() Okie poikie , that's the filter binned. Actually might stick them up on fleabay :P . Thanks though peeps ![]() I'll say though wasn't really thinking powerwise(fast enough for what I do with it). More to do with getting rid of the airbox to gain some space(being a bit lazy really) for some bits I wanted underneath the tank etc. Anyways ended up sticking the BMC RS Race filter back in and jeez forgotten what a racket(induction sound) it makes ![]() ![]() Cheers Ben |
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